winter project No: 581

[Eveready1100]

+1 with Pete on the "don't use the rubber seal".
I've read it here and on the UK site so it must be gospel.

[petejw1966]

hey jonesy,
that seal is no longer used,
just fit the head gasket without it.

just out of curiosity where did u get the seal from?
it doesnt come in any top end gasket kit ive seen.

glad u got the head sorted out.

[Jonesy]

After much valve lapping and blueing and doing the leak test the orthodox way I finally got all the valves to seal. Inlets 1 & 2 were the main problem children.
So now I progress to fitting the head gasket, cam chain tunnel seal and the head itself, only to find the head is rocking on the tunnel seal.


 My previous 3X1 engine never had one and I'm wondering if I can discard it and proceed without it.
Anyone else had experience with these?
Its item 4 in the picture. and it's taken from pg 35 in the Haynes manual



The part also appears in UK Brians part finder site.

http://www.benefiscal.co.uk/partinfo.php?myid=18173&mypartno=2H7-11355-00-00

[Jonesy]

They were already removed, but it wouldnt be any more complicated than hooking them out with a scriber or yanking them out with a pair of pliers

[excess.11]

What was the process of pushing / pulling out the old ones ?

[Jonesy]

Yes very easy job, a No: 2 phillips head makes a good applicator for fitting new ones,
slide  the new seal onto the screw driver,
poke the screw driver down through the v/v guide,
start the seal onto the guide and either drive it home by hitting it with your palm or very light tapping with a small hammer.

[excess.11]

Thx.....not having done these before....are they just a push out push in dry fit ?

[Jonesy]

Yep, valve seals are new

[excess.11]

One question i have is..........
Have you put new valve seals in the head ?

[Little Scotty]

My shed is,like my riding,agricultural,not very big and doesn't really lend itself to mechanical work requiring finess.But it does have power,lots of shelving,a concrete floor and locking doors.Yours,on the other hand,is, from what i can see,possibly off the starship Enterprise.

[Little Scotty]

thanks Jonesy.sorry for the late reply but i only just found your message[i really could get some tuition in the area of computers]

[Jonesy]

Pulled the valves out of #3 cylinder and gave them the blue treatment. Inlet was perfect. but the exhaust had one very localised blue mark on the seat.



decided to put it back in the drill and check run out with the dial indicator but an indicator wasnt needed...started the drill and there was well over a mm of runout? dunno how it even held the leak test for as long as it did......looks like I'll have to go through the boxes of bits to find a better one,

[SCARFEY]

Yep pouring petrol into the ports is the normal way.  Take the valve out and use some bearing blue to see where it's not fitting. It may only need a quick lap with the old paste and rubber suction cap lapping tool.

[petejw1966]

hey jonesy,
instead of pouring petrol into the chambers,
tilt the head and pour petrol into the ports,
that way ull see better where abouts on the valve seat
its leaking, u dont want to have any leaks or seapage.

[excess.11]

Jonesy.......given that 2 sets of the valve seats did nt leak.....and the other 2 did.....it depends on if you want to achieve perfection..............evaporation would probably account for the minor amount leaked on the 2 sustained sets.
Here s some links that may help you decide if you want to carry out further valve lapping...

http://smallengineinformation.com/?page_id=560

http://kz650files.kz650.info/adobe/Valve_Lap.pdf

Jonesy......you ll notice the "Leak Down test in this you tube clip is carried out in the opposite manner to what you have done......by filling up the ports.
 Although as you did............i think petrol is the better test fluid..