Removing the drive shaft?

[BrettS]

Damn pics gone missing, I was looking for shaft grease again

[Jonesy :-)]

Ok since BrettS gave me the go ahead to hijack, still wheel spliney related
And Also in reply to an email I got from Eveready
as I mentioned earlier I was about to take the drive shaft out.........What made me go into the area of the drive was just randomly checking backwards forwards free play at the back wheel I had about 10mm backlash and a very distinctive clunk each way when the 10mm backlash took up........so out with the yellow handled stethoscope which reckoned it was in the final drive. Off with the wheel, splines look good and well lubed still red coloured too but maybe a tad darker, off with the final drive, same, all looked good, final drive had no detectable back lash. drive shaft had a fraction of freeplay with the slightest of noise still remaining coming from up the uni joint end. This is where I got reluctant to go any further this close to the motogp trip.  Middle gear oil was still honey coloured and I had no vibration from a wearing uni so I made the executive decision it was ok and roadworthy for Phillip island and back. put it all back together with lashings of fresh grease and now quiet as a mouse wtf.
The only conclusion I came up with is that I'm just using a general purpose grease on the splines and probably needs more checking and refreshing than purpose made spline grease

[BrettS]

Hey thanks John, don't go hexing me though 

[hen]

You are a true believer and a true achiever looking forward to seeing your bike at the rally

[BrettS]

Hey Jonesy, Hijack away. I only talking shyte anyway. I ended up taking both shockies off so I could move the swing arm freely. This and pulling the boot back on the uni-joint so I could see the uni move as I rotated the shaft. Once I was able to move the shaft and watch the uni move with it and a couple of hail Mary's I shoved the shaft in like a bitch. Funnily enough before this giving it a good tap with a 12" shifter didn't work.

[BrettS]

All done.
Since I was cleaning and freshening the back end up I thought I better finally get that copper washer to seal the final gear oil filler bolt/grubscrew. Did a fair bit of running around just to get the bloody washer but no one had a replacement bolt which I also wanted as the allen hole had long since rounded off and a chisel had to be utilized to undo the bolt.
I decided to weld an allen key into the bolt as a temp fix till I find a replacement.



I couldn't find a 40% Moly grease as most don't tend to list the %. But I was lucky enough to get a Grease and oil Guru who assured me that this stuff is the Bomb with a high percentage of Moly + other ingredients that will ensure it does the job for my shaft drive bike.

It has sugar mill written on it as apparently it is used at the sugar mill with massive gears and massive slow moving bearings.
Thanks for all the help Guy's. I put a couple of rubber washers on the Mufflers and the Bike is running better and better 

[Jonesy :-)]

I noticed some movement and noise when I rotated the back wheel  back and forth this arvo and now I'm up to pulling the  drive shaft out and waiting to see how you go getting the shaft splines and the floppy uni lined up before I go any further.
Philip island trip on soon and reluctant to open a can of worms.
don't want to hijack

[BrettS]

Might be funny if I wasn't drowning in sweat and having trouble getting the spile to line up again Aaaarrgg!

[Jonesy :-)]

Or, if you really want to tailor the ratio to whatever you want.....you could go chain drive, I know where you could get one....

[BrettS]

Yes we were a little out of wack there, I was posting the pick of the spline as you replied to the earlier post about the diff mod. Not sure about anyone else reading it but I was with ya all the way 
Ok, I am heading to Rip Every Poor C.... Off now and hopefully they have the 40% moly. The premium high temp red wheel bearing grease I already had will go every where else.
Thanks 

[Eveready1100]

Brett, having trouble keeping up with you. Check my last posts as when I put them up, you've replied probably at the same time.
For all the splines, 40% moly grease, and hi temp wheel bearing grease for all the bearings.
When you clean all the grease off the diff end of the driveshaft, have a close look at the teeth as I found mine to be quite badly stepped from wear. Have a read of this thread and check my photos. I thought they looked ok until I really cleaned it up and inspected them - CLICK

Oh, and about the only way to lower the gearing easily is to source a 16" wheel off a Special. Mind you, it only alters the revs by about 400rpm @ 100kph so it is marginal, but noticeable off the mark. Not like putting a set of 4.11 gears in the back of your V8, though.

[BrettS]

Ok great thanks Errol, what do you reckon around the roller bearings and wheel splines Moly or general?

[BrettS]

Yes I saw the talk of failure and that's were a lot of it went over my head and I was wondering what the more experienced thought about it?
I just got asked to come along to the next local 1/8th mile drag meet with my bike so the lower diff gear would be no good for that  I wonder if there is anyway to get a higher gear in the diff for an even faster take off?

[Eveready1100]

Brett, go for the 40% as the one with the lower content can give up the ghost quite quickly, as Bryan found out a while ago - CLICK

[BrettS]

It say's to use molybdenum bisulfide grease on the Axle. After googling I am still not sure as there seems to be a 3% and a 40% moly grease. I am guessing the 3% will be ok. The manual just states grease for the wheel replacement so unsure if I use general purpose grease or Moly grease there?
I was going to patent my shaft removerer but decided to share it with ya's 
Bonsai wire (most handy stuff ever) wrapped around spline end then a good yank. I got the misses to stable the bike at the front cause some one complained it wasn't safe