XS1100 AUSTRALIA
XS1100 Topics => Full rebuilds => Topic started by: lambs on March 29, 2020, 08:26:40 PM
-
Just some photos to while away the time while 'social distancing'.
Painted engine cases. VHT satin black engine enamel.
(https://i.ibb.co/1rKj742/RH-rebuild-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1rKj742)
(https://i.ibb.co/V2FxmY1/RH-rebuild-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/V2FxmY1)
Lower crankcase half ready to go:
(https://i.ibb.co/Cn8yR2S/RH-rebuild-4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Cn8yR2S)
Ditto for upper half, crank, etc in place:
(https://i.ibb.co/Hn28fqL/RH-rebuild-5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Hn28fqL)
All new bearings, seals, o-rings throughout. Crank measured up fine after a light linish. I was surprised given that a couple of head cam bearings are stuffed due to lack of oil supply.
Case halves have now been mated and bolted up (no photo ATM).
I got the parts cheap so I've fitted the kick start mechanism from an earlier model:
(https://i.ibb.co/gj17F5W/RH-rebuild-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gj17F5W)
While investigating fitting the kick start mechanism to an RH engine, I saw it claimed that it was possible to do without splitting the cases. Looking at the design of the mechanism and the way it's fitted, I just can't see that it's possible.
As mentioned in another thread, the cylinder block has been bored to suit a 1196 piston kit and ring gaps are within spec. I still need to paint the block.
Working on assembling the clutch ATM. All clutch friction plates measure at 3mm, which is new spec.
-
great work Lambs
I suspect I might be a bit late with this but MP recommends swapping the Shift Drum Cam with part no 2J2-W1814-00 fitted to other yamaha models of that era (SR500, XS750/850....)
Looks like this
(https://i.ibb.co/6wq9H4r/20200404-20160528-171125.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6wq9H4r)
the OEM for our model looks like this
(https://i.ibb.co/S0DtChm/20180528-131519.jpg) (https://ibb.co/S0DtChm)
-
Nice work lambs, what was 2nd gear like?
In the background of one of your pics was a spoked wheel, what's it off
-
Thanks.
MP = Mal Pitman I assume (?)
I used the original drum cam, but I wasn't aware of that mod. The original was in pretty good nick, but I went over it with fine sanding drum in the Dremel. The indent plunger also had little wear but I gave it a light 'polish' with 600 grit emery in the lathe.
I take it the alternate shift cam is designed to improve shifting or something along those lines.
great work Lambs
I suspect I might be a bit late with this but MP recommends swapping the Shift Drum Cam with part no 2J2-W1814-00 fitted to other yamaha models of that era (SR500, XS750/850....)
Looks like this
(https://i.ibb.co/6wq9H4r/20200404-20160528-171125.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6wq9H4r)
the OEM for our model looks like this
(https://i.ibb.co/S0DtChm/20180528-131519.jpg) (https://ibb.co/S0DtChm)
-
I was aware of the reported 2nd gear problems but everything looked fine. I undercut the dogs slightly to (hopefully) improve engagement.
That's a Gilera 202 rear wheel.
Nice work lambs, what was 2nd gear like?
In the background of one of your pics was a spoked wheel, what's it off
-
A few other things that may be of interest:
- I had bought a 'full' gasket set from Yambits but, as it happened, Alan included another 'full' gasket set with RH#2. Alan's gasket set is the one I'm using for the current build and it's "Cruzi'n Image" brand. I've opened it to find that it doesn't include the gasket for the breather cover (Yamaha PN 2H7-11169-10). While I haven't opened it yet, I also can't see that gasket in the Yambits gasket set (they supplied a 'Harden' brand set, but the image on their website shows the Italian 'Athena' brand). The breather gasket is readily available, but a bit of a strange omission for, supposedly, a 'full' gasket set.
- Mainly because my bearing guy had them readily available, I've used steel cage 4205 bearings for the primary shaft and layshaft bearings (in place of 6205 type) and also deleted the 3mm spacer in each case. I machined 3mm off the primary gear spacer to ensure correct alignment with the clutch gear.
- The 'pinned' clutch support bearing was ridiculously expensive (OEM only) so I went with the 5205 type (no pin but with circlip) and used Loctite high-strength bearing retainer.
- As indicated, clutch friction plates were all 3mm. Steel plates were a bit corroded but cleaned up OK. Clutch springs were borderline lengthwise so will be replaced, particularly given that this is to be a 1196 engine.
-
Clutch in place + alternator rotor. Waiting on new clutch springs.
(https://i.ibb.co/NWK0KG6/RH-rebuild-1-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NWK0KG6)
On the 'hoist'.....
(https://i.ibb.co/cNWftVt/RH-rebuild-2-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cNWftVt)
Oil pump in place.
(https://i.ibb.co/HpwQkNG/RH-rebuild-3-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HpwQkNG)
-
Correct about the shift cam, lambs
I have it in mine, works fine,m but the OEM part was OK also
Too many other things changed to know it this was important -
however, if the boss says it is then it is.... :)
-
Hi Lambs - i recently bought a 'full' set and my one omitted the breather too - regards kev
(https://i.pinimg.com/564x/41/cc/1b/41cc1b8c770f4badb1cbfc1610118ad1.jpg)
-
I've not seen a breather cover gasket in any set I've ever bought either, just made my own
-
DITTO, of 3 sets.
-
I'm detecting a theme.....
I'm a long way from engine start, and it can be done with the engine in the frame so plenty of time to sort that gasket yet.
-
Loom repairs...I've done a lot of these so have most of the equipment and connectors.
The ignition loom was in a bad way, particularly the sheath which had gone hard and disintegrated in a number of places.
Of course, before doing anything like this, take careful note of the wire colours and their respective locations in the main connector (or connections, depending on the design of the loom). I also measured the pick-up resistance and they were well within spec.
Note that the neutral switch connector (bottom left in first photo) 'pokes' through the sheath a distance from the pick-up end. It was a matter of measuring the distance from that end to get it in the right place with the replacement sheath.
(https://i.ibb.co/fp0YpC3/loom-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fp0YpC3)
(https://i.ibb.co/CQTyLFb/loom-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CQTyLFb)
The old connector. Replacing the sheath means taking this off. To get the individual tab connectors out just requires pressing down the retaining projection (arrowed) and then pushing the old tab out the 'back' of the plastic receptacle. A suitable small screwdriver (jewellers or similar) or something similar will do the job.
(https://i.ibb.co/sgHcxGB/Connector.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sgHcxGB)
After being pushed out, the old tab (in this case the neutral switch wire) is shown at top. They all look the same apart from wire colour. Next to it is shown the tab I'll be using as the replacement. The new tab is slightly larger being FASTON 1/4" (6.3mm) standard, while the original was 6mm 'Japanese' standard. The difference doesn't present any major issues in this case.....and the FASTON type are easier to source. The original and replacement tabs are zinc plated brass for corrosion protection. Plain brass tabs are also available, but best to use the zinc plated type.
(https://i.ibb.co/m0mw60G/Spade-connectors.jpg) (https://ibb.co/m0mw60G)
Sheath material is readily available (ebay, whatever) and comes in different bore sizes. In this case comparing with the old sheath showed that 8mm bore material was close enough.
(https://i.ibb.co/7tFf76L/Sheath.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7tFf76L)
It's not possible to push the wires through the new sheath with the old tab connectors in place, so they are cut off leaving as much of the original wires intact as possible. Once that's done, it's 'just' a matter of pushing the wire bundle through the new sheath.....easier said than done depending on the number of wires and the overall length they are to be 'pushed through'. No photographs or video can cover this. It can take a lot of patience and the only tip I can give as that it is best to keep the new sheath laid as straight as possible....any curves increase the resistance to the wires passing through.
To get the neutral switch wire into place I used a piece of stiff wire to pull it through. After 'nicking' a small piece out of the new sheath at the appropriate location using a wad punch, I forced a length of stiff steel wire through the sheath from that location to the connector end, attached the neutral wire using electrical tape (first photo) and than used the steel wire to pull the neutral wire through the new sheath. The second photo shows the neutral switch connector in place.
(https://i.ibb.co/6PNS39C/Draw-through.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6PNS39C)
(https://i.ibb.co/fvCRqJB/Neutral-connector.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fvCRqJB)
Once all the wires are in place in the new sheath, it's a matter of wire stripping and crimping on the new tab connectors. The tabs are then inserted into the plastic receptacle, making sure the wire colours match their original locations and they 'lock' into place.
(https://i.ibb.co/rsjy3m4/New-connections.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rsjy3m4)
In this case the new tabs are slightly longer than the originals but nothing a dremel won't fix, if needed.
All done:
(https://i.ibb.co/bgVSB8R/Complete.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bgVSB8R)
All mounted up:
(https://i.ibb.co/vDngFj0/Ign-mounted.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vDngFj0)
Phew......
-
Nice work - regards Kev
-
Similar story for the alternator stator(s). Wiring sheath was intact but had gone hard in places and would have cracked eventually, so decided to replace. Inner stator is two wires only, so 6mm sheath used, while outer stator is 4 wire and 8mm sheath.
(https://i.ibb.co/BNrgnnf/RH-wiring-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BNrgnnf)
In this case, both stator connectors use female tabs in a plastic housing. The tabs are held in place by a 'tang' projection and are removed out the 'back' of the plastic housing by depressing the tang. You can see the square channel (arrowed) moulded in the housing where a suitable tool is inserted to depress the tang and remove the tab
(https://i.ibb.co/7z6p6Q9/RH-wiring-5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7z6p6Q9)
There's a special tool for the purpose:
(https://i.ibb.co/gZt38vs/RH-wiring-10.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gZt38vs)
(https://i.ibb.co/WkPkZrB/RH-wiring-9.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WkPkZrB)
......but any thin, stiff steel screwdriver (eg jewellers) or similar will do the job. Sometimes a little twisting helps. The tab is pulled out the back of the plastic housing:
(https://i.ibb.co/qsS6rmQ/RH-wiring-7.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qsS6rmQ)
Original tab is plain brass, but I'm using zinc plated brass replacements....better corrosion resistance. Slightly different design but does the same job.
(https://i.ibb.co/n0Y4GN2/RH-wiring-16.jpg) (https://ibb.co/n0Y4GN2)
In the case of the inner stator, I was able to push the two wires through the new sheath, but it does take some patience. New tabs crimped on and re-inserted into the plastic housing (the tabs can only go back in one way, but in the correct polarity, of course).
(https://i.ibb.co/g9XsS5M/RH-wiring-18.jpg) (https://ibb.co/g9XsS5M)
The outer stator is the same story, but in that case there are 4 tabs in the plastic connector:
(https://i.ibb.co/FX1RGj7/RH-wiring-20.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FX1RGj7)
Generally speaking, the larger the wire bundle, the harder it gets to 'push' them through the new sheath (unless the sheath ID is 'oversized' compared to the wire bundle). I used the 'pull through' method in the case of the outer stator loom. One disadvantage of the 'pull through' method is that you inevitably have to use something like insulation tape to attach the draw string or wire to the end of the wire bundle. That inevitably increases the OD of the bundle at that location and can make things more 'difficult' to pull through the sheath. I find that a little silicone grease on the outside of the insulation tape can make all the difference.
(https://i.ibb.co/Syskz2b/RH-wiring-22.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Syskz2b)
All done.
(https://i.ibb.co/VpjP1nm/RH-wiring-24.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VpjP1nm)
-
Pistons in place + base gasket and camchain tensioner.
(https://i.ibb.co/94dnRdT/pistons-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/94dnRdT)
-
Cylinder (with base o-rings installed) in place on centre 2 pistons with pistons supported by a couple of gauge blocks to ensure they're 'square' to the cylinders:
(https://i.ibb.co/kxzV5mS/cylinder-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kxzV5mS)
Piston ring compressor is a 20mm wide section cut from a 75mm pvc stormwater slip coupling with a 5mm (or so) slot cut, along with a suitable hose clamp (2 of, of course):
(https://i.ibb.co/Yy42m4J/piston-ring-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Yy42m4J)
A bit of gentle tapping and a careful eye out for a piston ring popping out (or any unexpected resistance) with a bit of luck results in the centre pistons safely in place.
Outer pistons can't be supported at their base in the same way due to lack of room, but the guidance provided by the inner pistons in their bores + the associated friction makes things a bit easier. Extra care still required to ensure outer pistons enter their respective bores squarely. The lack of room also means that getting the piston ring compressor on and off is a bit fiddly, but patience is the order of the day.
(https://i.ibb.co/mRVJKc4/cylinder-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mRVJKc4)
Again, a bit of gentle tapping with close observation means.....
(https://i.ibb.co/pjFXLmK/cylinder-4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pjFXLmK)
Success !! :)
-
Set TDC and ignition rotor/pointer mark alignment.
(https://i.ibb.co/MN82LG4/dial-guage-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MN82LG4)
-
Nice work lambs, I like your backyard engineered ring compressor, I'll have to give it a go, I've previously done without, and yes steady as she goes is the name of the game
-
Thanks. I haven't done a full rebuild of a 4cyl motorcycle engine since the 80's....a basket case Z1 (another one of those 'shoulda' bikes.....shoulda kept it ::) ). I have a decent quality piston ring compressor set, but the bands are too wide and would be very difficult to get off in the available space - getting the bands onto the outer pistons would have been virtually impossible. The 1196 pistons are 74.5mm and the slip coupling is nominally 75mm ID, I had one spare from a plumbing job so thought it was worth a try. I think they are only a few $$ from Bunnings or similar. Might also work with smaller XS11 pistons with a bigger section/slot cut-out.
-
This is the head I'll be using.
(https://i.ibb.co/2cX2Y0K/s-l1600-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2cX2Y0K)
It's from a low k XJ1100 so I'll be blocking off the YICS passages. Valve stems mic up as stock - no measurable wear. Needs a good clean so I'll have it hydroblasted, then do the valves and seats + paint.
Why XJ1100 ?.....it was cheap and the original head was knackered (badly damaged ex cam journal).
-
I’ve always if they would fit. What about the FJ’s
-
Wondered should be after always. ::)
-
I’ve always if they would fit. What about the FJ’s
According to some people on the US forums the only difference between the XJ head and the late XS heads is the YICS ports, and it has been used on XS engines without problems. I needed a head (yeh, yeh, I've heard it before.... :)) ) and this one was cheap enough and low k's so took a gamble.
I thought the FJ was pretty much a new design in its own right and the head is 4 valves (I think....)
-
I have the XJ head back from cleaning and will get to that soon, but in the meantime I did a carb rebuild. The carb set that came with the bike was not in very good condition, not to mention some sort of paint or sealer had covered some parts, so a complete strip, clean, etc was in order.
I won't go into full details because xtian has posted a very good 'how to' article here:
http://xs1100.com.au/forum/index.php?topic=3362.0
....although there is at least one detail difference compared to RH carbs that people need to be aware of, but I'll get to that.
If there's no need or you don't plan on replacing the throttle shaft seals then I'd suggest separating the carbs isn't necessary. In that case, I'd advise not using any aggressive solvents since that could damage the seals. Check first, but most carb cleaners should be OK, however also be aware that some carb cleaners might also damage or even strip the RH carb body paint - not a problem if your carbs aren't painted, of course.
If you plan on doing a complete strip down than I'd give this advice:
- make sure you take notes/photos of the location of parts.
- The carb 'gang' plates are held to the carbs with screws that have thread lock applied from the factory. There's a reason they're called 'cheese head' screws and it's not just because of their shape. Soft buggers, and anyone that's had anything to do with 60's, 70's, 80's Japanese bikes knows why there's a big market around replacing them with socket head cap screws.
- Don't 'go crazy' on the above screws with an impact driver. The carb bodies are thin walled castings and it would be easy to do damage.
- As described in the above linked article, vice grips (and other methods) on the screw head, and.....
- ......heat is your friend, but not too much. Heat the head of the screw and the carb body at the screw hole, which will help break the thread locker 'bond'. I found this method, along with vice grips on the screw head worked every time - but I have to say it took quite a lot of effort. For heating I used a Weller portable butane soldering iron that has a heating tip attachment:
(https://i.ibb.co/TPBZF19/torch.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TPBZF19)
Small enough to direct the heat accurately, but also providing enough heat for the purpose.
When I finally had the carbs separated from the gang plates, a difference with the Suzuki carbs almost caught me out. The choke plunger(s) operating shaft on RH carbs actually has 2 sets of spring loaded balls - one set on carb #1 and one set on carb #4. The set on carb #1 matched indents on the choke shaft for the three choke positions - off, half on, full choke. The set on carb #4 doesn't match any indents (in fact that choke shaft doesn't have any indents at that location), but appears to be there to provide extra friction on the shaft. The spring and ball are small and easily lost if you're not aware....the ball itself is 3mm diameter:
(https://i.ibb.co/J2wwp9q/Choke-balls-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/J2wwp9q)
I almost lost the spring and ball on carb #4 because I wasn't expecting them. The arrow in this image shows were the spring+ball sit for carb #4 (similarly for carb #1).
(https://i.ibb.co/qd4HCM4/Choke-balls-1-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qd4HCM4)
TBC
-
[cont'd]
Replacing all the [8] throttle shaft seals required removing the throttle plate to get the shaft out. There are 2 screws holding each plate in a machined slot in the shaft:
(https://i.ibb.co/cNmNL7g/butterfly-screws-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cNmNL7g)
[note the location and orientation of stamped number on the throttle plate for later assembly]
The screws are centre-punched at the shank end by the factory to help lock them in place:
(https://i.ibb.co/W2HfVxd/butterfly-screws-1-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/W2HfVxd)
...and I found that thread locker had also been used. Given that that if you butcher the screw head in this case you're in a world of hurt, I'd strongly recommend using a quality, close fitting screwdriver and, again, heat is your friend.
If you are successful and everything comes apart OK, it's time to check, clean and put it all back together. I expect that getting the throttle plate back into position is something that can be fiddly. The plate itself has marks on it from the shaft that will help:
(https://i.ibb.co/dpcM7tD/butterfly-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dpcM7tD)
.....but apart from that all I can say is that unless it in the right position it will 'jam' in bore...and you will know it. When it's in the right position the throttle will 'snap' shut in a very satisfactory way. There really is no way to describe it here, or with any amount of photographs.
I also replaced the original Phillips head screws with 12.9 zinc plated countersunk socket head screws:
(https://i.ibb.co/8Ky1ck2/butterfly-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8Ky1ck2)
(https://i.ibb.co/cgvwGNB/butterfly-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cgvwGNB)
(https://i.ibb.co/ZGmBd8K/butterfly-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZGmBd8K)
These screws are stronger than the originals and the hex drive is more positive and reliable than the original type. Loctite also used.
In terms of other parts that are needed, throttle shaft seals are available here:
https://www.motorcyclespareswarehouse.com.au/products/bdc36-325-seal?_pos=1&_sid=dabab2320&_ss=r
...but there will be other places, I'm sure.
The choke plunger boots on my carbs had gone hard, so I got replacements here:
https://www.geoffsxs.com.au/OpenCart/index.php?route=common/home
.....but I believe he has no stock of these at the moment....
I used this carb kit for replacement jets, etc:
https://www.motorcyclespareswarehouse.com.au/products/ky-0578-carb-repair-and-parts-kit?_pos=1&_sid=49217d570&_ss=r
-
Got a bit ahead of myself. These are the carb bodies after painting but before re-assembly:
(https://i.ibb.co/WBHZDfM/carbs-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WBHZDfM)
Paint used was VHT engine enamel in flat black. In this case I baked the bodies after painting in my bbq at around 100C for an hour - sort of in line with what is recommended (temp gauge of sorts, but manual only control of temp :) ).
I also found that a number of the the original throttle shaft seals were cracked and certainly needed replacement.
-
Good, informative write up lambs. I had a similar drama of the momentarily lost choke detent ball and spring. I found a nail that fitted perfectly simulated the choke rod while carb bodies were seperated.
-
Good, informative write up lambs. I had a similar drama of the momentarily lost choke detent ball and spring. I found a nail that fitted perfectly simulated the choke rod while carb bodies were seperated.
I only found the one on carb #4 because the ball was hanging out on a bit of residual grease.....pure luck.
The RH parts list shows the ball and spring as parts 63 and 64, also 2 of each but only in relation to carb #1. Nothing shown in relation to #4.
(https://i.ibb.co/12Bjx2N/Screen-Shot-2020-05-17-at-9-34-54-am.png) (https://ibb.co/12Bjx2N)
-
This photo shows the indents mentioned previously on the choke shaft at carb #1:
(https://i.ibb.co/mBrbSPT/carbs-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mBrbSPT)
...while at the other end (carb #4) there's no indents but a faint wear mark from the contact with the ball bearing can be seen:
(https://i.ibb.co/428xcQs/carbs-5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/428xcQs)
Anyway, all back together and ready to bolt on:
(https://i.ibb.co/mBtWwDC/carbs-6.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mBtWwDC)
(https://i.ibb.co/qghM8Dq/carbs-7.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qghM8Dq)
I've used zinc plated socket head screws throughout. Also no loctite on the gang plate screws, but spring type lock washers, mainly to make it easier to get things apart, if needed.
One final tip with regard to carb refirb that I should have mentioned earlier. There are three carb balance adjustment screws:
(https://i.ibb.co/PF5ygtB/carbs-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PF5ygtB)
To make things easier in terms of carb balance after re-assembly (esp if your carbs were more-or-less in balance before refurbishment), I suggest measuring and noting the 'gap' in the balance adjuster before disassembly for each of the 3 using a vernier caliper or similar:
(https://i.ibb.co/R30SxbW/carbs-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/R30SxbW)
After re-assembly, the balance adjusters can then be reset to their original positions. Hopefully this will save some time, but obviously a check of balance will still need to be done with the carbs back on the engine.
-
On to the head. As mentioned previously, I'm using a YICS head from an XJ1100. There's plenty of info out there on what YICS is and does, so I'm not going into that here. The important thing is that an XJ1100 is just a modified XS1100 head but turning an XJ head into an XS head is not at all difficult.
This little drilling (about 4mm in diameter) in the inlet port just 'behind' the inlet valve seat is the working end of the YICS system:
(https://i.ibb.co/RgnGf1h/YICS-1-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/RgnGf1h)
There's one of these in each inlet port.
The other end of that drilling is blanked off near the inlet port, in this case #3, but you can also see the one for #4 further over to the right.
(https://i.ibb.co/kyP1fjL/YICS-1-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kyP1fjL)
The small drilling is connected to a much larger drilling from near the head gasket face, arrowed here:
(https://i.ibb.co/HxKXFLm/YICS-1-5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HxKXFLm)
Again there is one per cylinder, and it is this larger drilling that is blocked off to turn an XJ head into an XS head. This image shows the drillings for cylinders 3 and 4 (1 and 2 is a mirror image):
(https://i.ibb.co/q9VdXpn/YICS-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/q9VdXpn)
The threaded hole 'between' the drillings is also a difference to an XS head. It's there for an extra stud that I've removed because it's not needed for an XS11 engine. The stud was originally there to help clamp the XJ head to the XJ cylinder block. The XJ block has an extra passage cast in as part of the YICS system that 'links' all the inlet ports.....there's plenty of images out there.
Anyway, there's more than enough 'meat' at the large drilling to accept a 1/8" BSPT plug:
(https://i.ibb.co/GTdpcvk/YICS-1-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GTdpcvk)
.....so after drilling and tapping + a bit of Loctite:
(https://i.ibb.co/RCLgjvX/YICS-1-4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/RCLgjvX)
...job done :)
-
I've done a lot of engine building over the years - road/race, motorcycle and car. One things for sure, you can't go without decent equipment:
(https://i.ibb.co/MpJjm6z/W-B-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MpJjm6z)
This one was almost literally being thrown out because no-one could work out why the valve chuck had stopped working. They're all belt drive so it was actually a simple fix....but that was not for me to say 8)
Exhaust valves and seats take a beating and usually the main issue unless it's a high milage engine. The XJ head was low k's so only exhaust valves needed a light touch-up:
(https://i.ibb.co/8dXpCLS/W-B-1-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8dXpCLS)
Neway style carbide valve seat cutters are a god-send compared to the 'old' way using seat grinding stones. I think stones actually give a better finish, but re-facing them intermittently is a PITA.
(https://i.ibb.co/31PHrFZ/W-B-1-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/31PHrFZ)
If your valves and seats just need a light lap with grinding compound, I'd suggest getting hold of one of these gizmos:
(https://i.ibb.co/9hX0s0J/lapping-tool-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9hX0s0J)
One end attaches to your electric drill and the other end has the suction cup for the valve head. You hold the (grey) barrel with one hand and using the drill provides the oscillating action at the valve head. Saves wearing out the palms of your hands...
All valves done, head ready for painting:
(https://i.ibb.co/6Yj0GzL/head-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6Yj0GzL)
......yes, I don't mind the odd pale ale now and then..... ;)
-
Looking forward to the finished build.
Great pictures
-
Valves and valve gear installed:
(https://i.ibb.co/WfWsBr4/head-6.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WfWsBr4)
I did the valve clearances on the bench:
(https://i.ibb.co/3Wp6PvP/head-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3Wp6PvP)
I had a few spare shims from the damaged head, but - and this may already be 'known' - it turns out that I needed some other sizes and K-series 2 valve motors (K100 and K75) use the same 'size' valve shims. I bought my original 'naked' K100 from a BMW mechanic and it came with some extra bits and pieces, including this:
(https://i.ibb.co/P6Kyspv/head-12.jpg) (https://ibb.co/P6Kyspv)
(https://i.ibb.co/7rTNytk/head-13.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7rTNytk)
....so shimming the valves didn't take long.
Without the shim kit, I would have gone to this guy who is not far from me:
http://www.precisionshims.com.au
I've used him before and he does excellent work.
[as an aside, with the K-series 4-valve motors the valve shim is the cam follower bucket - that's right you have to change the whole bucket to adjust the valve clearance.....]
Head in place but not bolted down yet:
(https://i.ibb.co/2P3ZyL7/head-10.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2P3ZyL7)
-
Precision shims are very good. cheap, fast and quality goods. I had to get a 190 shim made for my RH. Good score with the BM shims
-
That's a good box of shims you have there.
-
Please correct me if I’m wrong, but, are the cam cradles in a different position than an XS? It’s been 10 years since I’ve looked in there.🙄.
And yes there are several engines, both motorcycle and car, that share valve bucket type shim size.
-
We'll spotted makzy, I reckon your right, xs cam bearings or cradles as you call them are more evenly spaced,.
-
Please correct me if I’m wrong, but, are the cam cradles in a different position than an XS? It’s been 10 years since I’ve looked in there.
And yes there are several engines, both motorcycle and car, that share valve bucket type shim size.
At one point I had the original (knackered) RH head next to the XJ head on the bench and they looked the same to me in that regard, but today I did some checking. The RH head cover fits no problem:
(https://i.ibb.co/3dyF1Qs/Engine-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3dyF1Qs)
I pulled the RH head (not pretty) out of the shed :
(https://i.ibb.co/wKJx5SV/Old-Head-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wKJx5SV)
.....and measured the centrelines of the cam caps with the vernier (end of gasket face as the ref), then compared that with same cap(s) on the XJ head - all came up the same distance within less than a mm or so.
Taking the original RH inlet cam and laying it on the XJ head shows that all the lobes, bearings, etc line up between the XJ head and the RH cam:
(https://i.ibb.co/880vJx6/Head-with-RH-cam.jpg) (https://ibb.co/880vJx6)
-
Not the engine, but I started on the frame, which needed a repair before being stripped and painted as you'll see.
The frame had been powder coated at some point, I'm not a fan. This frame had been subject to a long-term exposure test and the coating was failing (falling off) in a number of areas. Also there was rust here and there where the coating hadn't been applied at all + the rear master had leaked at some point stripping the coating at that location.
(https://i.ibb.co/cyfxQkg/Frame.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cyfxQkg)
Apart from the failing coating, they'd powder coated over:
- frame grommets left in place.
(https://i.ibb.co/MpppFC8/Frame-grommet-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MpppFC8)
- the steering lock cover.
(https://i.ibb.co/vQBV3tn/Frame-Lock.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vQBV3tn)
- even the ADR plate
(https://i.ibb.co/yqrSZX9/ADR-Plate.jpg) (https://ibb.co/yqrSZX9)
Someone has tried to scrape off the plastic after, and there's probably enough infor for rego purposes, but I'm still going to try to remove the rest of the plastic (maybe MEK or something like that).
The RH rear side cover mounting bracket had been broken off at some point (the grommet you can see has also been powder coated):
(https://i.ibb.co/pvp2FfH/Frame-Grommet-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pvp2FfH)
The fracture had been powder coated so the bracket was broken prior to the frame being coated.
I found a suitable angle bracket and bent up a replacement:
(https://i.ibb.co/dPWKNBT/Frame-Bracket-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dPWKNBT)
Temporarily held in place with a screw at the 'back' (at the bracket with the grommet mentioned above):
(https://i.ibb.co/f82MGqj/Frame-Bracket-installed-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/f82MGqj)
...and reshaped to match the original (having another RH comes in handy....):
(https://i.ibb.co/CHMRcpn/Frame-Bracket-installed-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CHMRcpn)
Sidecover lines up OK:
(https://i.ibb.co/wYGzK7y/Frame-bracket-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wYGzK7y)
I just need to sort out a suitable pin for the mounting grommet and then weld it all in place.
-
Well there ya go, I stand corrected, like I said it’s been a while, amazing how time distorts memory.
Re powder coating, they obviously didn’t sandblast the frame before coating because the grommits and ID plate would have dissintergrated.
-
Geez makzy your excused but I'm worried about my memory, I was in doing cam work only a month ago :-[
Lambs yeah whoever it was that didnt prep your frame probably isn't in business anymore. I've got a powder coated frame that has seen over 20 years and tens of thousands of kms of service and holding up better than the paint that came before
-
That’s rite Jonesy, I used to work in the industry, not as a powder coater but as a fitter in the balustrade industry, but the business would coat anything, the procedure was blast, wash, dry in oven, chemical clean, prime, bake, sand lightly, clean again, powder coat, bake, cool, test thickness.the carry racks on my Ute were done by them 16 years ago and still good apart from the top bit where everything sits, If it’s done properly to the rite thickness, not too thin, not too thick, it will wear extremely well, but it’s a tricky business with some shifty operators, Buyer Beware! Sorry about hi-jacking the subject, let’s get on with it.
-
Moving on from powder-coating......I was able to remove the powder coat from the ADR plate with MEK and a 'few' cotton tipped buds.....
(https://i.ibb.co/vQwwB0v/Frame-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vQwwB0v)
Should be enough to get through classic reg in Vic.
Finished the bracket before final welding:
(https://i.ibb.co/j6vbQhf/Frame-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/j6vbQhf)
The 'pin' is made from a 6mm coach bolt with the head reshaped to match the original as closely as possible.
(https://i.ibb.co/hYNzcK2/Frame-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hYNzcK2)
Bracket and pin welded in place and trial fit of the sidecover:
(https://i.ibb.co/WxXgrgT/Frame-6.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WxXgrgT)
....just like a bought one (sort of....).
I'll be taking the frame and other parts (swinging arm, stands, etc) to be stripped later this week with any luck.
-
Ordinary old thinners will melt it away, all be it slowly.
-
Ordinary old thinners will melt it away, all be it slowly.
I had some MEK left over from another job, so it was worth the try.
-
I didnt even need a compliance plate for historic rego in nsw
-
I didnt even need a compliance plate for historic rego in nsw
VicRoads has tightened things up in Vic since the 'good old days' when 1 person in a club could sign off on the bike or car without a RWC.
Basically it boils down to:
- proof of previous full reg history in Australia (any State or Territory). Previous club reg (only) or similar is not enough.
and/or
- proof of ADR compliance. Ideally an ADR plate that matches the frame number, but an engineering inspection report or compliance plate (eg Qld L03 compliance plate) is usually OK.
+ a current RWC, of course, except for anything pre-1949.
If it's a grey import manufactured after June 1975 then it won't have an ADR plate, of course, and without proof of previous full reg VicRoads will demand an engineering inspection (called a VASS) costing at least $440.
I'm a scrutineer for club reg in Vic and I can actually do an inspection report on my own bikes, but that still has be signed off by the club Vicroads signatory, and, believe me, with VicRoads it's best to have all your ducks in-line.....
-
Sucks to be in Vic if you haven't got a compliance plate ay. :P ;D.
-
Sucks to be in Vic if you haven't got a compliance plate ay. :P ;D.
.....thus why I am so keen for the one I have to be readable. I have no reg history for this bike....nothing ::)
-
Cleaned up and painted the engine side covers:
(https://i.ibb.co/2NmsX2G/engine-covers-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2NmsX2G)
-
Cleaned up and painted the engine side covers:
(https://i.ibb.co/2NmsX2G/engine-covers-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2NmsX2G)
VERY nice
-
One small problem found when I went to bolt on the intake manifold 'stubs'. Part of the head casting interfered with the #4 intake stub...
(https://i.ibb.co/TmqcBwk/Intake-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TmqcBwk)
....preventing the stub bolt holes lining up on the head....
(https://i.ibb.co/59bLkWL/Intake-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/59bLkWL)
About 3mm misalignment. Rather than attack the head I took a little off the stub and everything lined up fine:
(https://i.ibb.co/ccm8ZYP/Intake-5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ccm8ZYP)
Not really a big deal. None of the other stubs had this problem. The stubs were a new set for an XS head, so maybe the XJ stubs are slightly different in order to fit but I'm not about to buy an XJ set to find out. From pictures on the internets it appears XJ stubs come with gaskets, which is another difference.
-
kick gear/shaft can be slipped in without pita
case splitting but gotta grind the shaft shorter
in conjunction with some sleight-of-hand...
Leaves a smaller width "support" at the end but
meaningless as there's basically zero load there
anyway ..
possibly after 40 or 50 million kilometres
of gear-changing it could cause 0.5 - 1mm of wear though..
Will report back about that around the year 2220 or so..
For convenient tired-battery-backup-kick-lever -
a fold-up xs850 lever fits with a chainsaw-file
groove to spline for the lock-bolt. ..
position and clearance of footpeg determined by year of model,
fold-up pillion peg can be adapted...
Torquey-as 1196 wiseco kit sweet to flow and tulip the
ports with it...
Anyhow 1196 needs undercut 1st and 2nd cogs coz full-gas
will soon enough round-off the stock cogs in a rattly machine-gun sound of destruction jeeves...
Also 80' cams are superior to 78' cams for the street/road,
78 cams are too bloody fluffy below 3 grand ...
-
gotta grind the shaft shorter
...so, as I observed, the stock parts can't be fitted without splitting the cases or 'modification'. It's like saying.... "yeh, that bearing fits.....but I had to use a sledgehammer....."
Not my style, I'm afraid, no offence.
Anyhow 1196 needs undercut 1st and 2nd cogs coz full-gas
will soon enough round-off the stock cogs in a rattly machine-gun sound of destruction jeeves...
The dogs were fine and unless the undercutting is done properly you'll weaken the dogs and the gear (I once investigated a gearbox failure for a certain well-known Australian manufacturer caused by exactly this issue). In my opinion, not necessary on something to be used very occasionally and otherwise stock - 1196 notwithstanding. If you're going racing or this is a daily.....knock yourself out.
Also 80' cams are superior to 78' cams for the street/road,
78 cams are too bloody fluffy below 3 grand ...
I'm not using '78 cams, but friends with early bikes 'back in the day' never commented about anything like that. They were stock bikes and I had a short ride on one. No problems, AFAIC.
-
This is the reason I need another front guard:
(https://i.ibb.co/G7DKkLw/RH-Guard-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/G7DKkLw)
This is the front guard from RH#2. The cracking was hidden beneath an aftermarket fork brace. The guard is actually 'bulging' in the region of the cracking. It's caused by corrosion (rust) between a metal brace that's part of the guard and the guard itself.
Anyway, I think I've tracked down another guard. Not exactly the same, but will do the job.
Frame is out being done.