RH engine rebuild

[makzy]

DITTO, of 3 sets.

[Jonesy :-)]

I've not seen a breather cover gasket in any set I've ever bought either, just made my own

[Plod]

Hi Lambs - i recently bought a 'full' set and my one omitted the breather too - regards kev

[AussiXS11G]

Correct about the shift cam, lambs
I have it in mine, works fine,m but the OEM part was OK also
Too many other things changed to know it this was important -
however, if the boss says it is then it is....   

[lambs]

Clutch in place + alternator rotor.   Waiting on new clutch springs.



On the 'hoist'.....



Oil pump in place.

[lambs]

A few other things that may be of interest:

- I had bought a 'full' gasket set from Yambits but, as it happened, Alan included another 'full' gasket set with RH#2.   Alan's gasket set is the one I'm using for the current build and it's "Cruzi'n Image" brand.     I've opened it to find that it doesn't include the gasket for the breather cover (Yamaha PN 2H7-11169-10).    While I haven't opened it yet, I also can't see that gasket in the Yambits gasket set (they supplied a 'Harden' brand set, but the image on their website shows the Italian 'Athena' brand).    The breather gasket is readily available, but a bit of a strange omission for, supposedly, a 'full' gasket set.

- Mainly because my bearing guy had them readily available, I've used steel cage 4205 bearings for the primary shaft and layshaft bearings (in place of 6205 type) and also deleted the 3mm spacer in each case.     I machined 3mm off the primary gear spacer to ensure correct alignment with the clutch gear.

- The 'pinned' clutch support bearing was ridiculously expensive (OEM only) so I went with the 5205 type (no pin but with circlip) and used Loctite high-strength bearing retainer.

- As indicated, clutch friction plates were all 3mm.  Steel plates were a bit corroded but cleaned up OK.   Clutch springs were borderline lengthwise so will be replaced, particularly given that this is to be a 1196 engine.

[lambs]

I was aware of the reported 2nd gear problems but everything looked fine.  I undercut the dogs slightly to (hopefully) improve engagement.

That's a Gilera 202 rear wheel.

Nice work lambs, what was 2nd gear like?
In the background of one of your pics was a spoked wheel, what's it off

[lambs]

Thanks.

MP = Mal Pitman I assume (?)

I used the original drum cam, but I wasn't aware of that mod.   The original was in pretty good nick, but I went over it with fine sanding drum in the Dremel.   The indent plunger also had little wear but I gave it a light 'polish' with 600 grit emery in the lathe.

I take it the alternate shift cam is designed to improve shifting or something along those lines.

great work Lambs

I suspect I might be a bit late with this but MP recommends swapping the Shift Drum Cam with part no 2J2-W1814-00 fitted to other yamaha models of that era (SR500, XS750/850....)
Looks like this



the OEM for our model looks like this

[Jonesy :-)]

Nice work lambs, what was 2nd gear like?
In the background of one of your pics was a spoked wheel, what's it off

[AussiXS11G]

great work Lambs

I suspect I might be a bit late with this but MP recommends swapping the Shift Drum Cam with part no 2J2-W1814-00 fitted to other yamaha models of that era (SR500, XS750/850....)
Looks like this



the OEM for our model looks like this

[lambs]

Just some photos to while away the time while 'social distancing'.

Painted engine cases.  VHT satin black engine enamel.





Lower crankcase half ready to go:



Ditto for upper half, crank, etc in place:



All new bearings, seals, o-rings throughout.   Crank measured up fine after a light linish.  I was surprised given that a couple of head cam bearings are stuffed due to lack of oil supply.

Case halves have now been mated and bolted up (no photo ATM).

I got the parts cheap so I've fitted the kick start mechanism from an earlier model:



While investigating fitting the kick start mechanism to an RH engine, I saw it claimed that it was possible to do without splitting the cases.     Looking at the design of the mechanism and the way it's fitted, I just can't see that it's possible.

As mentioned in another thread, the cylinder block has been bored to suit a 1196 piston kit and ring gaps are within spec.    I still need to paint the block.

Working on assembling the clutch ATM.   All clutch friction plates measure at 3mm, which is new spec.