Phil's Bike

[Exs1.1]

Then it was time to paint the engine, I used the "High Temp" Gloss Black  engine enamel on the barrels, head and cam cover. The rest of the engine and gearbox got a few coats of "Satin Black" followed by a couple of coats of "High Gloss Clear". The fins were then cleaned using a "Bastard file" at first and then finishing it off with 400 wet/dry sand paper, and same for the "Cam Cover". All engine bolts have been replaced with a "Stainless Steel" set.

[Exs1.1]

Hello guys, just another update of the progress  as you will see I have been able to put some time and effort  into the restoration project over the last few weeks, and it's beginning to look like a motorbike once again. The first task was to prepare the wheels for a respray and that was a tedious job to say the least, purchased a rubberised masking tape that guarantee's to give a straight edge unlike the paper  masking tape that allows the paint to seep under the edge and spread. After the masking was complete it was a coat of "Etch Primer" then a few coats of "Satin Black"




I am not sure how robust this paint will be and only time will tell, may even put the spare set of rims into a paint shop and get them professionally painted and swap them over when the time comes.

[Exs1.1]

There'd be more than just a couple of us watching your progress, mate. That's going to be a fine looking machine when you're finished. Just curious about the painted discs. Did you mask off the mating surface where they bolt to the wheel as I had runout issues with my XS discs on my trailer.
I found that some paint on the face of the hub adapters was causing the disc to wobble slightly.
A quick clean up of all the mating surfaces fixed that problem.
Keep the pics coming, Phil. We love pics here.

Hey Eveready1100, I took your advice and cleaned the mating surface of the discs, shouldn't be any runout issues now thanks for the tip mate

[Exs1.1]

Thanks for that link XSokie, it will certainly come in handy if someting goes wrong at the mechanics

[XSokieSPECIAL]

Just so that you have the info Exs1.1....................


http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5090

[steptoe]

                                   

[Exs1.1]

This is what this site is all about.

Those with the knowledge to share do so freely and a rebuild in progress to encourage others to have a go as well.

Watching with interest for any new tips all the time. Don't stop the updates until you've got a few miles on her though to see that all is well.

When you get into the box and check out 2ND I would humbly recommend that you have it undercut. Much more bite and no chance of it popping out on you as they tend to do with a few miles on them. Talk it over with your mech.

I don't recommend the do it at home with a dremmel if you've already got it at the shop and apart anyway.
Keep it comming mate.

Appreciate the encouragement Fred thanks, and I will certainly be posting more pics as the restoration continues. I was in two minds about what I should do with the second gear (leave it alone, or have it looked at) as I am not one for fixing something that isn't broken. But the post describing how to move the second gear spacer was very encouraging and got me thinking of how I would feel if 2nd was to fail soon after the bike was finished, and now your suggestion of undercutting has me thinking again. So I will have a chat with the mechanic and arrange for it to be undercut, the more insurance the better I will feel.

[Exs1.1]

am loving the story of the rebuild,,

                               BUT

    the directions ALSO say NOT to spray directly onto discs or internal braking components,, 
                                      where xsive heat is created

                      will pay to take particular notice on first run

step by step is interesting to see,, how and why,, will stay watching 

Hey Steptoe,
Yes I too read those warnings and was a little apprehensive about using the paint on the disc's. So a call to 3M's technical department (1800 060 302) soon had me satisfied that it would be safe to use on Motorcycle discs. The warning is put there so people do not spray the breaking surface of the disc as this will cause excessive wear on the brake pads, also relevent for the internal braking components. I explained to the fellow that took my call (Robert) that the disc's have offset fingers that do not come into contact with any braking components other than the wheel. He was very confident that my discs would have absolutely no issues what so ever as long as the curing temp (200 deg centergrade) was achieved before they were mounted on the bike, as if not, then the paint would have a chance to flow onto the braking surface via centrifugal force. So all good mate, no worries at all.

[Fred]

This is what this site is all about.

Those with the knowledge to share do so freely and a rebuild in progress to encourage others to have a go as well.

Watching with interest for any new tips all the time. Don't stop the updates until you've got a few miles on her though to see that all is well.

When you get into the box and check out 2nd I would humbly recommend that you have it undercut. Much more bite and no chance of it popping out on you as they tend to do with a few miles on them. Talk it over with your mech.

I don't recommend the do it at home with a dremmel if you've already got it at the shop and apart anyway.
Keep it comming mate.

[steptoe]

am loving the story of the rebuild,,

                               BUT

    the directions ALSO say NOT to spray directly onto discs or internal braking components,, 
                                      where xsive heat is created

                      will pay to take particular notice on first run

step by step is interesting to see,, how and why,, will stay watching 

[Exs1.1]

There'd be more than just a couple of us watching your progress, mate. That's going to be a fine looking machine when you're finished. Just curious about the painted discs. Did you mask off the mating surface where they bolt to the wheel as I had runout issues with my XS discs on my trailer.
I found that some paint on the face of the hub adapters was causing the disc to wobble slightly.
A quick clean up of all the mating surfaces fixed that problem.
Keep the pics coming, Phil. We love pics here.

Hey Errol, I didn't even give that a thought mate, so that's another coldie I owe you  I can see how it would be a problem as the slightest difference in alignment would be felt right through the bike and I probably would not have even looked twice at the disc rotor, your a champion mate. It's this kind of hands on information that is available on this site, that makes me proud to be associated with everyone here. Thanks heaps guy's.

[Exs1.1]

Hi Phil,

I've always figured that OEMs must use different paint on calipers, as it is far more resistant to brake fluid spills than other panted surfaces (guess it would need to be...)

Recently, I asked the question of the guy who is repainting all the parts for my Katana, including the calipers and he said he wasn't aware of any special paint, but properly cured polyurethane such as he used was quite resistant to brake fluid, whereas rattle can paint will be gone before you can say 'oops'.

I'm pleased to hear there is another DIY alternative, because I will need to repaint the caliper off a CB400/4 I'm restoring and don't fancy paying professional rates for such a small job.

Where does one buy 3M Caliper Paint?

Hey Stout, the 3M calliper paint certainly is a robust paint as when it came to removing the overspray (after the BBQ curing process) it wouldn't budge using general thinners. I had to us wet and dry to take it off, and that was an effort just to get the overspray off. Now you are probably thinking that you would need to go to an auto paint shop to buy this stuff, well I hope you are sitting down because believe it or not, Supacheap Auto are the only stockists of 3M paint in my local area. As you can imagine I was very sceptical of the quality of this paint, but I was pleasantly surprised at the outcome. The only thing I would suggest would be to remove all traces of OEM paint, and DON'T do what I did on the first run  I went for etch primer because the surface was down to bare metal and I figured that the calliper paint would need something good to adhere to....................WRONG WRONG WRONG. The etch primer couldn't handle the 200deg curing temperature and bubbled up everywhere, so after removing all traces of the etch primer I then sprayed straight onto the bare disc, and to my amazement it actually worked.

[Stout]

Hi Phil,

I've always figured that OEMs must use different paint on calipers, as it is far more resistant to brake fluid spills than other panted surfaces (guess it would need to be...)

Recently, I asked the question of the guy who is repainting all the parts for my Katana, including the calipers and he said he wasn't aware of any special paint, but properly cured polyurethane such as he used was quite resistant to brake fluid, whereas rattle can paint will be gone before you can say 'oops'.

I'm pleased to hear there is another DIY alternative, because I will need to repaint the caliper off a CB400/4 I'm restoring and don't fancy paying professional rates for such a small job.

Where does one buy 3M Caliper Paint?
 

[Eveready1100]

There'd be more than just a couple of us watching your progress, mate. That's going to be a fine looking machine when you're finished. Just curious about the painted discs. Did you mask off the mating surface where they bolt to the wheel as I had runout issues with my XS discs on my trailer.
I found that some paint on the face of the hub adapters was causing the disc to wobble slightly.
A quick clean up of all the mating surfaces fixed that problem.
Keep the pics coming, Phil. We love pics here.

[Exs1.1]

  Thanks melbxs, its nice to know someone else is enjoying watching the progress. I have to admit, the job has certainly been keeping my mind busy though, so many parts, gee where do they all go  Na it's all cool,  before I started this project I bought some Glad sandwich bags              (resealable ones) and as I removed things I put them along with their nuts and bolts etc into separate bags and marking each bag accordingly. Yes I know it's a sign of "Old Age" but it will make the assembly so much easier Thanks again for the comments guys, and now I know a couple of you are watching the progress, I will try to include more pictures just to keep you guy's up to speed