Clutch Issues?

[BrettS]

Some good info there Rasputin, thanks for taking the time to sound off 

[rasputin]

I just want to sound off a bit here.
First is that clutch cables needing lubrication will also cause clutch slippage. It is pretty easy to lube the cable and that is an easy fix.
Second is that I have had the steels on the clutch have build up on them to the point where they slip. I soak them in a product we have here called Evapo-rust for about 12 hours and they come out looking brand new (as long as they are not blued from slipping).
Third is the fact that I have had clutch springs weaken to the point of needing replacement on a bike with less than 40,000 km's. All that one needed was new springs. A spring held in one position for many years unused will loose some of it sproing.
Fourth is the fact that while I have changed about three sets of clutch friction plates....not one of them was out of spec far enough to need changing. When using a micrometer I had varying thicknesses showing but nothing out of spec. None of my bikes have over 50,000K on them though.
Fifth is that synthetic oil will cause slippage if the plates are not soaked in it from new. Whatever oil you choose to run is what oil you should soak them in before installation. Personally I will not run synthetic but that  is a personal choice. I find that my bike finds new places to leak with it.
Sixth is OMG YES do get the bolt tightened correctly as that is so important.
Seventh is that whenever you change your clutch plates be sure to take adjustment tools with you on your first ride. One everything warms up and you have ridden a bit you may have to re-adjust the clutch.
Now on a completely different note!!! You must be aware that Yanks are a throw away society Part of the whole country is sales sales sales. To many if it is not brand new then it is junk. They do also suffer from things we do not further north like high humidity which does affect certain things like clutches, gas tanks, etc. Their gas is not as regulated as ours in Canada and I am not sure how that equates to your gas either but everywhere in the world has differing values on that kind of stuff. We now have 10% ethanol in our gas which does cause a problem with storage (about 5 months a year for me)
Being half way around the world from you guys I still wonder if you toilet swirls the opposite way to ours...lol.
Thing is that while many problems are the same other problems are more climate and geographically different.
Ok long story over...Just wanted to sound off. Have fun Guys!

[BrettS]

Thanks Pete I did see that soaking in a tutorial I read. I imagine it could be a big mess if I forgot to soak.

[petejw1966]

I am tempted to just put the fresh friction plates in, check the steel plates and replace the worst ones and not put any extra plate in. I guess the heavy duty springs should be enough? It seems this would almost garantee no slip for several k's at least and if it does start slipping again I could put the extra steel plate. That does sound like a plan!

hi bretts,
not sure if ur aware or not but if ur replacing ur clutch plates
u should soak them in engine oil at least an hour before u fit them,
u dont need an extra plate,
tho washers under the springs have always worked well for me,
no need to do all the washers under the springs, just do them in even numbers
opposite each other, i usually do 4 washers under the springs, that way the lever is
a little heavier compared to a lot heavier having washers under every spring.

[BrettS]

I am tempted to just put the fresh friction plates in, check the steel plates and replace the worst ones and not put any extra plate in. I guess the heavy duty springs should be enough? It seems this would almost garantee no slip for several k's at least and if it does start slipping again I could put the extra steel plate. That does sound like a plan!

[Jonesy]

My first XS never had a problem, and I thrashed the guts out of it, Think 19 year old that didnt like being overtaken but liked to pass everything in front of him. and regular all out fangin it up and down the hill from the coast to Kuranda (FNQ) and the gillies highway to Atherton. But.....I religously changed the oil at 2500 Km's with Castrol grand prix.
2nd XS, the Bourke bike developed clutch slip not long after I got it, past life unknown but running Castrol GP equivalent. The springs and friction plates were all on there wear limit and were replaced, retained the steel plates(no extras) and now not a problem.
3rd XS, 581, so far so good but only early days.

[BrettS]

Hey Errol, After I put spark plug washers under my clutch springs which seemed to help at first, I finally got around to changing the expensive synthetic 15w-60 for a cheap arse $15 woolies multi grade oil and I thought the slipping problem had improved again. It may have slightly, unsure, but I definetly still have issues going on.
It could just be that my clutch is worn.
So before I open it right up, I ordered a new set of friction plates, heavy duty springs and a 4 steel plates. I am expecting to add an extra plate and also expecting to replace a few. I hope this is enough but it was all I could fit in the postage cost bracket. I got all this from Power Sports Plus, also with a new oil filter for the total of about $130, from what i see that is great value, but lets see if they adjust the postage cost when they look at the order.
The friction plates are EBC which I am very happy about but I almost did not buy any of the steel plates as they are barnett and those US guys complain that they warp in the XS1100. I could not find any other brand on the internet so I thought I would throw in as many plates as I could for the postage bracket.
I will have to order a set of verniers as well so I can check the parts that come out, might be a little time consuming with my thousands on an inch micrometer 
Looking forward to passing cars without the fear of the dreaded clutch slip 

[AussiXS11G]

ahem.....um....er......
well I did have some slipping issues when I first re-built my motor - but a new set of plates and heavy duty springs put paid to that - having said that - I never get up it until the engine/clutch cover is warm
Bryan

[Fred]

Guys,

I must admit that I rarely redline my old girl except when I'm teaching a harley bro a few lessons off the lights. I usually stay under 6500 rpm as I outgrew the need for speed in my dotage.

As for the the second gear probs, I did go through a couple until I undercut the current one and no more probs no matter how hard I wring her neck on the way up.

On my last teardown, as a matter of course I ran the calipers over the clutch plates and springs and although all were still in specs I did shim up the springs with the old spark plug washers from the falcon. I didn't do this to fix any problems with the clutch but just wanted a bit more feel at the lever and bite at the box.

As for the oils, like I said I swear by Valvoline and would put a lot of the probs at .com down to newbies on older bikes using friction modified oils unknowingly. Remember too though that the percentage of problems to members (6,605) is relative.

[steptoe]

I agree with  pg, the clutch nut is VERY important to get right, I.m the same as you Ev, never had slip probs, but I can't say I ride mine 7000 rpm either

when I rebuilt mine I put new plates,both steel and friction and springs as a matter of course, they still had meat,  the springs were about 1/2 mm shorter than spec, but even so still no probs, with the same loads as you, bike/chair/trailer/4 up, was going to put the extra plate in but finally left it out, they designed these bikes after a lot of thought, so they weren't about to put a light clutch in them

as for the .com probs,, reading the threads, they do like using conventional motor oils "with no probs",  they also have a lot of 2nd gear probs for maybe the same reason, or it's the way the bike is ridden,, I've got nuthin 

THAT IS why I use Penrite,, it used to be on the front label, "specifically designed for motorcycles"  meaning the clutch, it's not anymore, but I've stuck with that "with no probs"   

[pgnz]

Nah the clutch eventually slips if you really hammer the the bike, mostly at full throttle and comes in at up around 7000 revs in 3rd or 4th,  it's nothing unusual,  stiffer springs are good,  mines got stiff springs as well as sparkplug washers as shims along with an extra steel plate packed in (the yanks on .com stole that extra plate idea from me and claimed it as their own.  true) also if the main clutch nut isn't cranked up REALLY TIGHT the clutch will slip,  I reckon  a lot of slipping clutches are because of that nut not being tight enough.   

[Eveready1100]

I was reading a few responses in the "OIL" thread and it's prompted me to put up this question.
Has anyone on here experienced problems with their clutch that has required it to be modified or rebuilt like is so common on the US site?? They always seem to be putting in new fricion plates, adding an extra steel, or putting in heavy duty springs.
       I'd been clocking up the K's on my bike thinking how lucky I was not to have needed the clutch mods until is saw that oil thread where Fred, whose bikes done a kazillion kilometers and Pete, who's motor is a bit tired at the moment, haven't had clutch plate issues either. Mine hasn't been pampered during its time with me where while living in Brisvegas, commuting to and from work accompanied by my workmate on his XJR1300 would always result in drag racing from one set of lights to the next, which gave it a good workout, to lugging the trailer and campgear all over the countryside.
      Do you reckon it could be that the Yank oils are slipperier than ours or something else altogether?