A few Issues-fuel /electric with my 78 2H9.

[AussiXS11G]

something like this perhaps - It's my son's - took a bit of getting used to the riding position but what a great thing the Tuono is....
Philip Island - Superbikes 2013

[Aussiexs11]

Thanks, i was going to change out plug caps as well, do these little things before coils etc. I have a spare TCI unit, may try it too as you suggest.
Mechanically its all good re head etc, this engine recently had full upper (bores /rings /valves /seals / factory gasket/ camchain ) etc done. Has been running a few thousand k's, all good.
Its just the age /maintenance issue, they all need it eventually no matter how well you treat them.
Will keep you advised as time passes.
Need to get it sorted though for trip and also may use it for commuter soon, so needs real reliability.
Or I get something like an Aprillia Tuono.....

[excess.11]

Grant......electrically.....I d be happy if you would change out the tci unit on top of what you have reported you have done so far. Might seem you have a number of issues of which your maintainence work is picking up on .
Also replace the plug caps and rubbers on the hi tens cable and at the plug on the caps. Even if the ones you have look ok.......any internal dirt /grime in a hairline crack will become conductive in the wet along with loose fitting rubbers or ones that have gone hard from age.or the surface is starting to break down and absorb moisture.. This is where the spark shorts to the head in the rain.
The ngk replacements are cheap enough.
Mechanically ....I hope you don t have a minor crack  in the head area or leaking gasket ....of which you should visually detect with some sort of weeping or audible noise when the problem appears when getting hot.

[Aussiexs11]

As a matter of fact, am out in shed putting the "pig" back together.
I have replaced  all spark plugs, fuseholders, checked and cleaned wiring connections, pulled apart fuel tank breather, and replaced all wires off pickups.
Have taken it out between each repair to check if problem gone, only to find the issue creeping back in. BUT, Im a lot happier after replacing what I would call VERY dodgy wiring on the pickup connections, some bare patches, really dodgy connections. So Ive soldered in new wires and given plently of movement slack etc.
Bike has fired up nicely, but it did that before!  (Plugs made a difference in the immediate start issue)
Ive done 200klms running around, the problem did creep back when it was hot.

So Im feeling a little happier, now just waiting for rain that has arrived to bugger off and I will give it another checkout run. (and I fitted a new front tyre just to boot in the middle of all this, it was a little worn).

Will give yo more feedback soon!
Am hoping to get away a few days next week and do 1500-2000klms, so better be good!

regards
Grant

[excess.11]

How did you go with your problem/s ?
Any results or progress?

[Aussiexs11]

A few good replies in there, so:
1. Agree, and fuse clips or entire block replacement was on my list when I get home and will let you all know how that goes. was thinking of similar "Narva" type push in fuse block.
2. My eleco quals- Old ECNSW -class A elec fitter mechanic. Kept them active even though off into HSE world for last 20 years
3. Neutral switch- will check that wiring when looking at fuses / pickup coils.
4. Fuel tank vent- a must see.

All the "easy do's first,  and see if I can get it to start (would be a nice step), then run for a while without  being moody on me and  ride.
Then think about coils, carby strip etc.

Its been fabulous till this little spat, so all should be good.

[excess.11]

hey what would happen if you disconnected the neutral switch thing under the motor? besides the obvious no light when in neutral.
would that water proof your ignition? if you dont know when your in neutral you should hand your license back

One of the points they are making on the UK  site is "WHERE" to disconnect or bypass or rewire " so as to eliminate leakage to the pick up coil wiring via the original neutral cable going to the switch.
The remedy of those particular circumstances of fault are deemed to be fitting a waterproof connector to eliminate ingress of moisture .
There are a number of ways to eliminate /waterproof/weatherproof fittings....seal it......or....allow it to drain . A supposedly well sealed item can draw in and hold moisture and commence corrosion earlier than an open fitting that allows moisture to dry out / drain. Each item needs to be judged on it s merits and addressed accordingly. If there is an amount of corrosion on the spade connectors..........replace or clean them at the same time checking for tension and a well clamped join when pushed together . If the metal is fatigued the connection will fail when passing a reasonable voltage/current through them.
If the original plastic connector is in reasonable order.....not going to powder /cracked or signs of surface deterioration clean both it and the spade connectors and your good to go. When the plastic on a connector breaks down it loses it s insulation resistance.......add years of grime and gunk......some corrosion and / or loose fitting terminals...add a splash of water or moisture being held by the grime and..... by either or all ......it s a recipe for bad connections /voltage drop... and or... shorting/leakage between terminals.
If your not experiencing engine failure / cutting out... under the particular circumstances they state....leave well enough alone.....other than preventative maintainence / cleaning/checking of connectors. By all means replace if your competent and happy to do so.

[Christian Raith]

Best way to cure a fuse problem
Cheap solution from NARVA (Repco or Supercheap)
http://xs1100.com.au/forum/index.php?topic=1252.msg6870#msg6870

[excess.11]

Grant.......re reading your first post.........you are reporting misfiring in both dry and wet conditions. You also report that the fuse clips are weak. Before you go looking for the "unknown"........repair the "known" faults....to help eliminate the "unknown".
Weak fuse clips will struggle to maintain voltage/current and will overheat dependant on loads being applied....providing inconsistencies in operation and tests..... all over the shop.
You MUST attend to this issue before attempting to locate or carry out and report further issues.
Once you ve done this..... report back with a brief on where your other issues are at.
A quick fix for the fuse clips is to simply solder new clips to the existing tang of the crimp....by snipping off the 2 original parts that clamp onto the fuse. Saves time on a rewired block and moves you on quickly to eliminate it as being faulty.
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SZ2023
Nothing wrong with reinstating "Old" technology if they have stood the test of time of 36 years.

What type of "eleco" are your qualifications?

[Jonesy :-)]

hey what would happen if you disconnected the neutral switch thing under the motor? besides the obvious no light when in neutral.
would that water proof your ignition? if you dont know when your in neutral you should hand your license back

[Eveready1100]

Grant, your wet weather misfire woes are a very common trait of these bikes. Just to show you're not alone, whilst enroute to the Nymboida Rally in the pissing down rain, three out of the four XS11's travelling together in our little convoy were suffering badly from misfires. The main culprit is usually the neutral light wiring (believe it or not). Best example of this issue is just after washing the bike, you fire it up, and it runs ok, till you go to put it in gear and the motor dies.
The theory is that the neutral light wire is routed through the same sheath that the Pickup coil wires are fed through, and those wires have factory joints along their length inside the sheath. Over time, the insulation on these joints deteriorates, and with the introduction of moisture to the mix, invites electrical problems.
Enter, from stage right, the neutral light wire. The switch itself is a grounding device and when in neutral, the live 12v current flows down this wire into the switch where it finds an earth which powers up the neutral light on the instrument cluster.
Select first gear though, and the switch opens, the light goes out, and the live current still looking for an earth finds its way through the bad insulation and blankets the signals from the pickup coils, which are only very weak compared to the newly introduced power, and the motor stops.
A very quick way to check that this might be your problem is to remove th ewire going to the neutral light switch and connect it directly to earth. Your neutral light will be on all the time, but for testing purposes, this is the best way.
give the bike a thorough wash, or head for a heavy downpour (if you're that lucky) and see if the bike behaves the same way.
If it does cure the malady, the best way for a permanent fix is to run a separate wire from the switch up to where the wiring goes into the plug connector, and remove that wire from the connector completely (both sides) and join it together with some bullet connectors and insulate it from the rest of the wiring up there.
That way, you'll have a functioning neutral light again, and no more wet weather running issues.

Here's a couple of links to threads about this issue from the uK site - CLICK and CLICK

These two discussions offer different options for curing the problem, but back up the reasoning behing the why?

[excess.11]

Replace the plug caps. The rubber boots go hard or even missing..... plug caps lose insulation resistance and cause HV tracking to the head. If hi tens leads have gone hard....throw them over your left shoulder and get new leads/coil packs.

[Aussiexs11]

Thanks, will look at fuel cap vent first.
Then check the pick up wires. The manual should give me indication which connectors are the pick up wires? I would hazard a guess there is a process for check in the manual? (Haven't read through it in a long time!)
Then check general connections under the tank /coils.
Its always had an issue in the wet too , cuts out on cylinders quite quickly once the rain begins to fall, splash up. Which is a real electrical short sign (always suspected coils but never traced it because it disappears so quickly.

Any thoughts on that little issue??

Otherwise Ive loved riding this bike now for years, its been a real honest machine. Ive been entertaining selling it lately for a more modern everyday commuter.
I think we all get the feeling sometimes with these old girls that when they play up a bit, it would be much easier to just upgrade!  (Bikes I mean.....)

thanks
Grant

[Christian Raith]

Happens to me all the time when the fuel gets low.
Pop the fuel lid first before you dig too deep.....like I did 

[Jonesy :-)]

I'll go along with the fatigued pick up coil wires too