Manual test procedure for electricals

[excess.11]

Here ya go..........postage to Australia seems yes and no.!!!!
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/260418014314?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#shpCntId

[HMC]

Thanks for that Jeff
My mind hit a blue screen trying to comprehend that diagram.
I have removed the wiring harness and its damaged in a couple of places as is the lead from the left grip.
Looks like a couple of bites taken out of it, severed and scraped wires.
One of the wires from the pick up coil was broken in the insulation. The resistance was out of spec for one of the pick ups and it had been patched before so I have ordered another complete pick up coil in good order.
One coil is out of spec so looking for one of those and a speedo.
Would like to put a new main harness in it but cant find one.
Am looking at replacing the damaged wires completely but need the specs on what connectors I have. ( Molex?)
There are other better connectors around but as I need to replace the whole wire I then have to replace the other end, so I need to use original connectors anyway.

[excess.11]

HMC, how do the oil pressure (at back of cylinders)and neutral (under the motor)share a connection? are they joined somewhere in the loom? is that how its sposed to be Jeff?

Jonesy...... the simple answer is ..on the schematic diag ( http://webpages.charter.net/kbhahn/xs11/E-Fwire.JPG )showing a common connection between the oil and neutral light is ....correct.
What is NOT correct..........is the color shown on the schematic at that point..........it should be/and is BROWN .
The black wire to the oil light should not be there..... and that connection should be shown as the blk/red wire from the oil pressure sw.
The error seems to be in 2 places......outside of the terminal connector where the black dot shown on the blk/red missed connecting to the brown wire instead ...by a bees dick...... and not carrying that color through to the oil and neutral indicator lights.
Also the black wire should not be shown connecting to the oil indicator light....it should be the blk/red wire from the oil pressure switch.
Don t trust everything you see on the internet.......or in a wiring schematic!!!!

[HMC]

Jonezy
I am going off this diagram
 http://webpages.charter.net/kbhahn/xs11/E-Fwire.JPG
I checked the numbers on the bike which are covered by paint and the fairing bracket. Its 8/79 XS1100 and then damaged, so I reckon its a red F model.
The oil switch looks to switch to earth when pressured which is consistent with how I tested it, not running.
The wiring in the meter assembly seems consistent with the diagram.
With respect to the pilot jets I replaced I fairly confident as they looked identical. I have re shimmed the valves a couple of times now as I replaced 6 valves in it.I am confident all the carb ports are clean as I could get air through everything.
Its not able to be fired at the moment as its got wires hanging out all over.

[Jonesy :-)]

HMC, how do the oil pressure (at back of cylinders)and neutral (under the motor)share a connection? are they joined somewhere in the loom? is that how its sposed to be Jeff?

[excess.11]

After repairing the damaged wire from the pick up coils...has this fixed the rough running/popping problem you had?

[HMC]

I got a wiring diagram to work off. The green wire is the oil pressure switch.
Dont fully understand how the oil and neutral lights share a connection.
Found a severed wire from the ignition as well using the rubber band test.
Need some way to seal all these wires back up again after inspection to keep the water out.

[excess.11]

Sounds like the green rubber wire attached to a braided wire may be one of your problems......as i m guessing it s from the vac advance  pick up coils .

[petejw1966]

k,  uve set the fuel level on the rich
side, reset them all to 25.7 which is stock and
a lot leaner to the 25mm setting, u will notice an over all difference,

the pilots u replaced, were they the exact same ones u took out?
there are a Cpl of different style pilot jets that will fit but aren't
the right ones.

if u have the early model carbs also make sure the vent hoses are venting
and aren't blocked.

also if u have an air compressor, look up home made soda blaster on google,
works great for cleaning spark plugs and will save u a small fortune on replacements.

[HMC]

Hi Pete
I disassembled the carbs and gave them a clean. I had to replace two pilot jets that I got from a go kart shop in Adelaide.
I sonic cleaned the jets and carb bodies and cleaned the fuel tank.
The diaphragms are all good and operating.
I set the float levels at I think it was 25mm dry method using calipers.
I may be able to check them again using the fuel in tube method. Thats if I can do in situ as removing and installing the airbox is painful as the rubbers are not as supple as they were.
It was running rough and rich at a fast idle.
I went and got another multimeter so will test that Im getting 12 volts to the coil and go over the exhaust studs. I have a leaking oil hose to the cooler so maybe that pipe is loose as I have to keep removing it.
Also have a green rubber wire attached to a braided wire coming from the bottom LHS that has come adrift. So I need some diagrams but will get the details on what version of bike I have.
Rgds
 

[petejw1966]

if u have 4 black plugs,
then its running rich, and the pop is more likely
from the plug/s breaking down.
as I asked before, what changes if any have
u done to the carbs?

[excess.11]

One other question i forgot to ask.........when you say the motor is not purring...........do you mean ...at idle?...........or under acceleration...... through what rpm range?
If all else is ok............. a colortune in conjuntion with a carbtune balance.......should optimise smooth idling and transition from idle through the revving and de acceleration .
The afterpop you mention could be due to a leaky/loose exhaust....check the exhaust seals at the motor and general tight fit all over. Also check valve clearances.

[Jonesy :-)]

Ah your a funny man HMC
As for colourtune....I own one but I'm a bit of a sceptic, there  really good at setting your bike up to idle perfectly but once you open the throttle all those settings are null and void.
The carbtune on the other hand is a handy bit of gear

[HMC]

I used a carbtune pro from the uk.
However it did not register until it was inverted and was responsive to the adjustment thereapon.( i hope thats a word)
Have not gone so far as to coloutune as the plugs are black.


Bought a multimeter for $22.50.
It cracked internally as I pushed the lead pin in.
So I took the back off and reinserted the socket.
The screen was working so I tested it on the battery and smoke started coming out of it.
Yes I read the instructions.
Anyway its still got a quite expensive 9V battery in it..

[excess.11]

How did you balance the carbys/with what?.
Did you colortune the carbs as well?