Clutch problem

[Jazz]

yep it's very original i got it from a friend that has had it for 20years and i have been eying it of for 12. it,s only done about 110.000km and when not ridden it's washed polished and he keeps it in a house not the shed.
 just lowed in the rear shockers and springs. i did not do it so i can't help much with the info on it.

[excess.11]

Well done........looks mostly original ...........and being as such............that always makes problem sorting a little easier if there are any issues.
Fred will like the "Black " finish...........

How was the lowering of the bike carried out...as the front forks seem original and  in their right position on the tripple clamps .
Was it just a matter of using shorter rear shocks and altering the front springs ?

[Jazz]

oh and before you look to hard at the bike it's been lowered by 1.5"and now its hard to get on to the center stand, the exhaust has been HPC and yes it has 2 horns. i also have a tow bar for it, rear pack rack, and saddle bags.   

[Jazz]

some photos of my new girl  sorry about the size. by the was my out girl is a honda cx500 and in the back is a yamaha v90 step through, you can't see much but its there.

[Jazz]

[Jazz]

[excess.11]

The first tab on the home page has all you need to know and will have you posting in less than half an hour...........

You don t need to get a password for the account as mentioned in the post............just open your own photobucket  account. 

[Jazz]

i'd love to...... just got to work out how.....

[excess.11]

Hi Jazz......any chance you can post a pic of your bike?

[Jonesy]

You can buy the shimming tool off the net, do a search with a few keywords should turn up a few options.
Shims, ditto. Another option is to check out your local bike shop, particularly if they've been around for a long time and worked on these bikes in there hey day.

the only option to find out what size shims you've got without the tool is to remove the cam shafts, the number/size of shim is etched on the underside of the shim,,,,if it was installed correctly(number side down) otherwise the etching will long been worn off, then you'll need a 0-25mm micrometer.

Obviously doing it this way opens up another can of worms like timing issues and bent valves if you get it wrong.

Option 2 if you cant wait for the tool to arrive is get your local friendly forum member to drop by and give you a hand

[Jazz]

so today i adjusted the cam chain,checked the timing, spark plugs and it still ran ruff. so next i checked the valve shims 3 out of 8 were out by a lot.
so where is a good place to by the tool and get the shims? also is there any way to find out what number shims i need with out knowing the number on the back of the shim? (stupid question i know, i just don't want to wait for the tool then wait for the shims).

[Jazz]

well Fred i went to Vic roads today and even though the club was on the vic roads web site i found out that there not an approved club  so now i'm looking around at other clubs,  i'm not happy today.....

[Fred]

Hey Jazz,

which club did you join for the cheap rego plates?

[excess.11]

link to........xs1100 service manual............

http://www.mediafire.com/?3mm1uyunntw

[Jonesy]

Hey jazz
You can check the timing with an ordinary old timing light off the No:1 plug lead, remove the cover on the LH side of the motor/crank and you'll see a timing plate and pointer with top dead centre and a few other degree marks. Do a search on this site and you should find plenty of info.

Checking rhe shims/valve clearances is easily done with some feeler guages, adjusting is an entirely different kettle o fish. requiring a special tool, (readily available on the bay)
Remove the H shaped cover at the top of the motor with about 20 cap screws in it and the cams and shims will be revealed. also you need the same cover off the crank that you removed for checking timing to rotate the motor. a 19mm open ender on the square bit on the timing plate is what you need to turn the motor and get the cam lobes pointing away from the shims to check the gaps. your looking for 0.16 - 0.20mm for the inlet and 0.21 - 0.25mm for the exhaust.
that should get you started.

EDIT
what Jeff said, seems he's a faster typer than me