Petrol tap off position mod

[coe1948]

    I removed the vac operated taps and fitted manual XS 650 taps the problem is solved and not very expensive

    Regards Dale

[rasputin]

I for one have done the mod to the petcock position. I use it whenever I feel the bike will be parked for a while. If the whole fueling system is working then there is no need for it, but even a slight drip every day will add up. I do not like the idea of fuel in my oil so I use the mod to be sure when it is parked over winter or longer periods.
I think it is a great mod and would recommend it.

[AussiXS11G]

Dear oh dear......after all that...
 which is still the better looking machine?
thats right - no contest......

[excess.11]

Some models...... (not the "Magnificent Salubrious" Standard").........had a "clutch switch"........so "Nuff Nuffs" didn t start their bike in gear.

[excess.11]

 "Nifty " gadgets on the 78/79 Standards ....................

"A fricken kick start".

Dual filament front indicators ............

" Park " light position on ignition switch................. ( front and rear lighting. )

[Eveready1100]

Just been trying to sort out a list of differences between them. Lots of minor detail bits but here's the main ones from memory -

XS1100 Standard Gadgets
   
1/ Electronic ignition w/ vacuum & mechanical advance unit

2/ Electric fuel gauge

3/ Electronic tachometer

4/ Reserve lighting Unit (Headlight)

5/ Self cancelling indicators

6/ Tip over switch (Auto kill switch)

XS1100 RH Gadgets   

1/ Electronic ignition w/ vacuum & electronic advance unit

2/ Low fuel warning light

3/ Electronic tachometer

4/ Dimmable instrument lights

5/ Self canceling indicators

6/ Tip over switch (Auto kill switch)

XS1100 Standard Chassis Specs   

1/ Conventional type double cradle frame

2/ Straight spoke alloy wheels

3/ Spring / oil conventional fork legs

4/ Triple disc brakes

5/ 24 litre fuel tank w/ dual vacuum  fuel taps

6/ Conventional steel tube handlebars

Xs1100 RH Chassis Specs   

1/ Thick walled double cradle frame heavily gusseted and extra crossbraces for rigidity

2/ Swirly spoked alloy wheels -1kg less weight per wheel than the straight spokers

3/ Spring / air /oil leading axle type fork legs

4/ Triple slotted disc brakes

5/ 15 litre fuel tank w/ dual manual fuel taps w/ single remote vacuum valve (octy)

6/ Three piece fully adjustable handlebars

If I've missed any major differences (not round / rectangular oriented) or am just plain wrong about anything, please let me know so I'll know......

[Jonesy]

Them roundys are too hi tec, and if you brake down on the side of the road where would you start with all that wiz bang gadgetry?

[Eveready1100]

   Thought you'd like that 

[AussiXS11G]

LOL at
those Hi Tec RH bikes
 

[Eveready1100]

even though the fuel tap was rooted the float valves should've stopped any fuel flow

Yes, Paul. They should have. That's why you just bought some new float valves to fix the problem once and for all.

Actually, you could fit an octy valve off one of those Hi Tec RH bikes and that would fix the problem for good!

[Jonesy]

Thanks Jeff
Pulled the taps off, and apart this arvo and it seems  the left tap is the culprit. could suck and blow through the fuel outlet spigot on the left but not the right.
opened it up and found that the the "O" ring seat that the diaphragm opens had remnants of the old decayed "O" ring adhered to it. took to it with the dremel and conical felt tip, re assembled and no sucky sucly ........just leaves the float valves to fix.
I think even though the fuel tap was rooted the float valves should've stopped any fuel flow

[excess.11]

This info and discussion from the UK site................

http://www.benefiscal.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=7893.msg70756#msg70756

The filing off of the nipple to allow a full rotation of the tap lever seems to be out of frustration at not having found the issue as to why the taps are leaking.

It would only take a minor amount of surface corrosion or residue where the diaphrams o ring seals into the tap body to allow a leak once the vac is off.

On a previous post you had a lot of probs cleaning the carbys and the state they were in....
Check the fuel bowls for contaminants.
I f you ve experience a rusty tank and it s not clean inside..........contaminants can be enough to not allow the o ring to not reseat properly.

The slight retensioning of the spring could also help reseating .
The spring tension can act differently depending on how much weight of fuel there is in the tank.
If the springs are suffering from old age or previous corrosion....they may have metal fatigue and simply need replacing.
The standard fuel taps are very simple in design .

[excess.11]

When does the incontinence occur?
Is it from the carbys or visually from the tap/taps once the tank is removed?
Is the fuel leaking when the bike is cold?......or immediately after running the engine?........or slow leak overnight?


From memory.....there is a couple of holes you have to align when refitting the new fuel tap kits.
I used a "K&N" brand.........they are now fairly firm to operate but no leaks at all.
I gather from your other post regarding "needle and seats" you have a flooding problem.
Non alignment of those holes will cause taps to leak.

Hopefully the fuel cap breather is working ok and not allowing  pressure to build up in the tank ............pushing the diaphram open after running of the engine......... when the rising heat rapidly expands the fuel once stopped and parked

[Jonesy]

Any of you blokes done this with success? (knocking the stopper off for full 360 turning of the tap) just put a new complete seal kit through both taps and its still got an incontanence problem. Also read on the yank site about cleaning out the little brass vac valve inside the fuel tap with a piece of wire? any experiences/comments on that one?