Get it Going 1978 XS1100

[hen]

The bike always had a wine in 4th gear.. Something I found (this is the 2h engine) one of the double roller bearing for the main axle assembly has balls missing hope you can see in photo.


A friend of mine suggested I should balance my pistons and conrods. I found plenty of info on the net.
Main thing make sure you only have .5 of a gram difference .

Bought a set of jewelers digital scales 500.00 gram model ( should have got 1kg set as rods way more had to buy another set to get total weight of rods )
Weighed the wiseco pistons surprise all where close to the .5 tolerance
1.   201.1
2.   201.83
3.   201.53
4.   201.66

Weighed the Pins
1.   57.13
2.   56.97
3.   56.77
4.   56.89
Weighed the rings
1.   24
2.   23.86
3.   23.89
4.   23.92
Clips
1.   1.3
2.   1.35
3.   1.33
4.   1.33   
They suggest drilling the pistons to remove weight, but I just mixed and matched to get a close weight.
For the rods there was mixed advice some said weigh the little ends and then the overall weight, others said weigh both ends.
I did both ends and then the overall.
Mister Yamaha builds great engines only one rod needed slight adjustment



my camera or me need replacing always seem slight out of focus

[hen]

Got a problem  with to spacers which I can't remember which is the correct location  for each one let's call them A and B



I have got 2 engines (2H9 and a 3X1 I am rebuilding the 3X1)  that I pulled apart in 2007 both have these 2 spacers the 2H has been apart before as it has a very new looking 4th wheel gear and the kick idle gear has  a part missing any ideas why ??


But back to the spacers I know 1 ( I think it is B) is fitted with the bearing in the crank case for the primary shaft with the spacer fitted beside the circlip ?
The other spacer I could not find in the parts list for a 78 XS1100e and then I found a post listing bearings for the XS and it spoke about a spacer being required for a narrower bearing 16mm instead of the 18mm bearing fitted to the Drive axle assembly and if so is it spacer A.  But when I looked up the parts list for later bikes I found it under a H model it shows a spacer and a smaller spacer to go under the flange headed bolt so it takes up the space between the bearing and bolt, I do not have this smaller one but I plan to one day repair the other engine I would like to know which spacer  goes where.
Any help would be great

[hen]

Hopefully got all seals and " o" rings now and the trusty loctite 518 plus some scales to weigh the pistons and rods to balance them cleaned the cases today some of the paint needs blasting back before touch up,fingers crossed get some time this weekend

[Eveready1100]

Haven't dealt with my second gear issue just yet, but I'd say that if the lugs look to be in good shape with no signs of the edges being worn, just do the washer swap to increase the engagement depth and it'll be sweet!

[steptoe]

as far as the seals go John, I,ve used non genuine  with the ever trusty 518 and have no issues,, that was 2004,

didn,t know about the gear mods when I rebuilt mine, so I can,thelp there

[hen]

02102012 Hey thanks for that info about gasket goo and ring compressors.
The rust look in the Photos is oil in some spots plus discolouration of things only rust on recess where shift rod runs..

Not much work  done  last week as on long night shift, this week short night shift.
Last week:
 Finished  reading the Book XSELEVEN Heaven so I will post that back to Bryan this week ( thanks).
 Started to look for crank seals and middle gear seal could only find 1 side crank seal  and found last middle gear seal (at my old Yamaha) noticed on other sites people fitting non genuine seal that don't have a retaining lip so they glue them in, what have you Guys done in the past??

This week:
Reading about 2nd gear mod , lugs look OK but only mesh by 2.95mm approx . in modification reports they talk about moving washer to behind gear this will enable a further 1mm contact??
I am a bit reluctant to start grinding as lugs and gear look OK but they do look as if they need to be undercut to enhance the meshing. Has anyone just changed washer position and not the grinding??


Got more to tell will have to wait 

[steptoe]

as for case joining I always have and do use loctite 518, a red tube,,

unlike the others 518 will seal a slight gap,,

and as I was once told,, NEVER use silastic on/in a motor, the only place for that stuff is exhaust systems, you don,t want a bit of that to break off and get stuck in small oil way and block a fresh rebuild

as for ring compressors, I always use the flats of a couple of screwdrivers and ease the rings into the champher like Jonesy,,

what,s that rust looking covering in the pics,you might want to tend to that while your in there

[Jonesy]

Ring compressors aren't really necessary. They maybe of some assistance but I've never used them. The bottom of the cylinders has a slightly chamfered lead on to the rings. If you have cylinder 1 slightly ahead or angled across from 1 to 4 they'll go on fine with a little patience and squeezing the rings by hand 1 by 1 as they go in.
Like Jeff said, good to see another one saved from parts boxes in the dark dusty recesses of the shed.
Keep the pics and Q's coming

[excess.11]

Hen , you can use a worm drive hose clamp as a ring compressor to economise .

Gasket goo sealants...............

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Permatex-Ultra-Black-RTV-Silicone-Gasket-Maker-Maximum-Oil-Resistance-300mL.aspx?pid=113949#Description

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Permatex-Aviation-Form-A-Gasket-Sealant-Liquid-No-3.aspx?pid=5355&menuFrom=51001#Description

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Holts-Pep-Gasket-Goo-85G.aspx?pid=1060#Description

So happy to see another prospective xs1100 about to be reborn...........nice welding on the engine stand.

[hen]

All the inspiration and info that abounds on this site has got me motivated so I got the spare bike out of the garden shed then cleaned the shed and the garage, got all the parts from both engines together on a bench. Made up some brackets ( used my new auto darkening welding mask so good) for the engine stand nice and easy to work on.
Lots to do
•   Over haul carburettors, fuel taps, clean tank.
•   Balance pistons and rods.
•   Get head rechecked after being reconditioned 4 years ago.
•   Check the under cutting of gear  engagement lugs in the box , check all bearings
•   Plus other stuff and put the dam thing back together after I pulled it apart in 2007.
Time Frame?? A month ?? :'(today is the 22092012





Couple of questions what procedure and type of ring compressors do you guys use to put the pistons in.
And gasket goo for the engine cases the manual talks about Yamabond #4 any other suggestions