81 XS 1100 Start

[Eveready1100]

Seems a bit odd as we'd sort of worked out that your bike was an 81 XS1100H and the motor was out of an XS1100P, but the switchgear is intriguing. My bike when I got it had a choke lever under the left switchblock

This one's the real deal....
 








Found some more pics. Just can't get the right hand switchblock big enough to see clearly but it looks the same as yours







This bike is (at last report) located at the Motorcycle Museum at Haigsliegh, west of Brisbane.

[BrettS]

I would love to see how the bike looked as a cop bike. Hopefully it doesn't have alot of restoration value or is impossible as it would put a dampener on my mild cafe racer plan.
Although what would it take for a cop bike to turn bad.
I have found this with the information that only the state of Queensland used the XS11 as a police bike.

Although the authenticity of this picture was questioned?
Oh one more thing about this picture, I read that if my bike is an 81XS11H then it probably should have drilled disks but mine doesn't niether does thids pic of the police bike?

[BrettS]

I think I have found the evidence that clarifies this as a police bike.
There are a few switches on the handlebars that I could not work out what they were for.
Looked through the owners manual and the switches on my bike are not in it.

 
From the manual




There is an extra switch on the left but missing the hazard switch then two extra switches on the right. These would have to be for sirens lights and maybe other police stuff hey?

[BrettS]

Shoot Bryan that's great.  Thank you!

It was not a bad run overall today. Clutch front and back brakes I now feel confident they are working well. Indicators and brake light good. Couldn't get the headlight/taillight going so I might let my favourite auto electrician to help me out.
I would like to set up an after market oil pressure temp gauge for now so I can see for sure what is going on.

I was about to have another go at the carbies. Have them sitting on the kitchen table so I can give it a real good go. The smaller clogged jets where hard to get out so I wonder if there is more stuff in where they came from?   
Might just not be able to clean in there well enough without the ultrasonic cleaner or something?

Hmm might have to be patient and just wait till the ones from Bryan turn up 

[AussiXS11G]

hello bretts
I have a set that you can have - they have a bowl missing but you should be able to use a bowl of your set ....
they will need a good clean but are prob better than the ones you have....
pay for postage and they are yours...
PM me
Bryan

[BrettS]

Ok I pulled the carbies off again and just gave the jets that where clogged the most another go over. That helped and it now idles very roughly before conking out.
The fuel that is going in is clean and there are new fuel filters so it seems I need to do a better job on the carbies.
What options do I have as far as purchasing carby kits or is it even possible to buy new carbies.
As my set has a post broken I would like to get hold of a complete new set. I understand that is not cheap but I also understand that a good set of carbies is important  on a 4 carby setup.
Eddy mentioned an ultrasonic cleaner. I just asked down at the bike shop about where I might be able to get that done and they looked quit blank and had no idea.
Oh my diaphragms looked ok. There was some slight wear on three of them and one looked newer/different than the others so considering the cost of them maybe I should get more out of them.

I stripped the back brake cylinder as it was seized. Surprisingly once I freed it up it the rubbers looked fine and I put it back together bled it and it is not leaking. The return spring on the pedal does not seem to be doing a great job but the brakes seems to work fine. I bled through the front brake with new fluid and it seems to be working fine.
The reservoirs are both very weathered and I think it would be a good idea to replace them so I can see fluid levels but it seems I can only buy this as a complete unit with the cylinders. Is there any other options?
Thanks.

[BrettS]

Well that's a bit frustrating. This morning it is back to how it was before I stripped the carbies. will only start with some fuel down the carbies and then dies when that fuel runs out.
Thought it might be that it was just cold but the engine has now warmed up and still the same. Maybe the fuel is frozen in the jets it was another very cold night   

[BrettS]

Thanks Errol , I am sure this will be alot of help tomorrow

[Eveready1100]

No Brett. These have the old school cable setup. A damned good oiling wouldn't hurt anything at this time.

The bike does seem to be a little hard to push around

Well, they are a heavy bike to start with, and if the tyres are down  little on pressure, you will feel that also. If you jack the bike up, do the wheels turn freely? The rear normally has some drag from the final drive.
A quickie fix for slightly dragging brakes is to lift the caliper off the disc and open the bleeder.(remove it even, and check that it's not blocked up) Then squeeze the piston back into the caliper. Close the bleeder, sit the caliper back over the disc, then pump the lever to move the piston back out. Repeat a few times. You'd be surprised how much gunk comes out of the bleeder. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir while doing this as you don't want either to run out or have the fluid overflow. Remember, this is a quick fix if they're not too bad, otherwise a full strip and clean is advised.

[BrettS]

Dam sounds like that's about the whole bike LOL. Doesn't seem worth it to just blast around the bottom of the engine. Hmm learning something new everyday here 
Any tips for giving Dusty a good clean?

Ok, it's running now. How do the brakes feel? This is the main thing to check on before riding it around the block. If the bike's been sitting for some time, the pistons can sieze up, causing brake drag. Do the wheels turn freely after applying the brakes?

There is a reason I stayed away from motorbikes until I was 40. I used to be even stupider 
No back brakes at the moment. The bike does seem to be a little hard to push around but haven't noticed it worse after using brake.
I reckon I will be lucky if the back brake cylinder takes fluid without leaking, maybe a hone and new rubber will do the trick. I will at least change the fluid in the front and see how that goes. Also give the clutch the go over. (do these have a hydraulic clutch 
Getting a little more into the realm of what I can do so I will roll the sleeves up and get stuck in.

[Eveready1100]

Brett, be careful when it comes to using a pressure washer on your bike. Stay away from front wheel bearings, steering head, fork seals, switchblocks, instruments, carbs, top of gearbox (breathers for motor and middle drive) swingarm pivots, fusebox area, and the rear wheel bearings. Pressure washers will force water past the seals and rust can quickly destroy bearings.
When I first got my bike, it had a bit of a handling quirk, so I replaced the front wheel bearings, which didn't change anything. Then I had a crack at the steering head. The bottom race was very rusty and the rollers were all pitted and chunky. New bearings fixed that. Some time later, I had been lazy and had been giving the bike a quick blast off with my Karcher, instead of proper washes. At the next service I gave it, I went to drain the middle drive and milky liquid oozed out of it, Water had somehow gotten in there too, so I've given up on that idea since then.

Ok, it's running now. How do the brakes feel? This is the main thing to check on before riding it around the block. If the bike's been sitting for some time, the pistons can sieze up, causing brake drag. Do the wheels turn freely after applying the brakes?

[BrettS]

Oh and Jeff that Alumiweld stuff looks wild I might have to try some of that!

[BrettS]

Hey thanks guys you are all very kind 

I was just reading somewhere that the carbs changed alot year to year and even during the same model so it is not a good idea to interchange, so I will wait till I learn a bit more before taking you up on the offers.

I decided to get some wire and clean the jets out. I wasn't game at first but figured the damage I do could be no worse than clogged jets.
I just got it all back together, ok so I didn't wait hours for the repair to set. 

The fuel ran down the line nice and easy not like before so that was a great sign but then it started to leak out the carby again 
Shut the taps off and then started it anyway. Fired up fairly easy and started to idle nice so I turned the taps back on.
It spluttered around and back fired a little when I played with the accelerator but took it for a quick run around the paddock next door and then a lap around the little block. It was just getting dark and no headlights yet
It clunked into first gear, some times took a little to get going but overall I think it was ok.
Bloody loud, but checked the exhaust outlets and there does not seem to be much if any of a leak.
Maybe the filter box back on will help smooth things out ?
I think it will now be a good idea to go over the bike and get everything else working. Might even ride it back on the trailer for a trip to the high pressure cleaner now I know the bike a little better.

Thanks again for all the kind help. Could be on the road with ya's sooner rather than later     

[XSIIE]

Hey bretts,

Just checked out in the shed and I have 3 good carby bodies and the forth with a broken post.  They are already dis-assembled (for cleaning about 15 years ago)  Whichever one you need will have to go through the ultrasonic cleaner as they have oxidised slightly from sitting in a box.  You are welcome to the one you need. also there are parts for the carbs if you need any of those.

Eddy

[XSIIE]

Hey Bretts,

Which carby is it?  I may have a spare carby body that you can have.

Eddy