81 XS 1100 Start

[excess.11]

Brett.....longer fuel line hoses come in handy for when you tune the carbs.
You simply reverse the position of the tank and reconnect the hoses which then allows access to the adjustments while the bike is running.
Some use/make an auxillary tank out of a plastic bottle(petro resistant of course)and suspend it over the bike.
I find reversing the tank position pretty straight forward and no need for any extra gizmos.

[BrettS]

I thought about the hose kinking in the first instance but when the carbies where first cleaned you could see the fuel flowing through nicely filling up the bowls. I will double check how the filter box goes on and I think there is no reason I can't shorten those hoses for a cleaner run though. Good idea!
I will look at the manual to see if I can see what those tube thingies are doing.
Thanks.

[Eveready1100]

Those two tube thingies fit up through the rubber grommets (in pic of strap) on the top of the battery cradle to keep it aligned. I'm pretty sure I've got some of those bits floating around here. I'll have a look after I'm finished this night shift stint.

One thing I forgot to ask about your fuel delivery problem. How flexible is that fuel line in the photos? Any chance they could be getting kinked when the tank gets fitted?

[BrettS]

Thanks Jonesy, Id remembered reading a post about tires but only remembered something about a tire that followed the cracks in the road. I will ask for a price on the BT45s
That's great Errol I think I can figure something basic that will come pretty close to that. Not sure what the two little tubes are for though?
 
Thanks for the thoughtful response Ray, Maybe I am getting mixed up with the American models but I was sure I read that the 81 SX11H had drilled disks. I wil search for the model info again Hmm I need that as a favourite. Nothing back from the museum yet.
Thanks for the carb info. I am sure I will get my head wrapped around this sooner or later.
I moved in on the kitchen table for this rebuild so that it was a sterile operation. Fingers crossed I have it beat for now and I can take my time doing an even better job with Bryans Carbies. I will remember the Plastidip insulating spray it could come in very handy. The diaphragms had a little wear in a couple of spots but I don't believe they are leaking yet.
When it first started I found that giving it any throttle made it stall so I just let it idle to warm up. After it was warm it was idling a bit high so I adjusted the idle down a little. It will be interesting to see how it starts tomorrow and adjusting the idle as need be to warm up is a great tip.

I hear ya, nothing worse than having to do a job over again.
Thanks again
Brett 

[tripodtiger]

G'day Bretts, et al.

Just read through the thread and found it all quite interesting.

About your bike being a bitsa.  Mine is an 80 G - engine & frame prefix is 3X1.
The seat base, side covers and tank appear to be genuine XS11, but not from an Australian G.
The most obvious detail that is different is the tank & seat, the location of the rear turn indicators & the right hand switch block.
I do not recall any XS having drilled discs as standard.  My memory is that the first XJ900 changed the rotors from solid to ventilated, but not drilled.
The bolts around the top triple clamp are the same as mine, ie oem.

You mentioned differences in carbs etc between models.  I suspect that any would be minor detail, largely associated with emission control.  The carb bodies were used by different manufacturers, eg one of the Suzuki GS models used the same carbs, with internal settings specific for the bike (I saw these being modified to fit a Suzuki Sierra).  I'd not be afraid to swap carb bodies, as long as the components and fittings were the same.

I'd reckon if the cleaning of the carbs hasn't fixed the problems, pull them totally apart, one at a time and do it again.  Compressed air is available in an aerosol can - try a photographic store.  I did mine after the bike sat for 12 months as the fuel had evaporated and left near solid deposits through out.  I used Nulon aerosol carb cleaner and found it far far far better than the carb cleaner I had used before.

Make sure that the floats, um float.  ie not perforated.

Make sure the diaphrams are not perforated.  Stupidly expensive to replace, if they are perforated you can repair them by spraying with Plastidip insulating spray - yes it's a plastic paint that stays flexible - get it from a auto electrical store.

Closely look at the needles and emulsion tubes.  If they are out of round / worn just replace them.

If you are trying to warm it up with the throttle open, you may well be past the idle circuit and onto the main jet.  That may be something the be aware of.  Maybe increase the idle speed?

You can also do a very rough carb synch visually.  But that will only work if you can get it running.

You could always check that fuel is getting into the carbs by dropping the drain bolt from the bowl & connecting to an auxilliary fuel supply.

I hope you've got past all of these comments & suggestions and my input is redundant.


Do it once, do it properly.

[Eveready1100]

Here's a pic of the original bracket that goes across the front edge of the battery



The rubber pad that sits between the bracket and the battery



And here's a pic of the securing strap which goes diagonally down from the bracket to the bottom of the battery tray



And one of the plastic tray the battery sits in



Now and exploded view of how they all fit



Been looking everywhere for a photo of the assembled setup. Can't seem to find one ATM

[Jonesy]

Hey Brett
if your looking for tyres check this link out
http://xs1100.com.au/forum/index.php?topic=1267.0
I ended up getting some BT45 bridgestones

[BrettS]

Got the set of carbies all back together again today. The bath went well. The gasket was saved before it went in the bath. It then got a good blast with the air. It didn't come out sparkling and if I knew they where going to charge a standard price I would have made sure everything went in the bath, not just the body and emulsion tubes, $45. I left the rest soaking in CLR clear for the night.
Put it all back together and it fired up pretty easy.
It was still spluttering and back firing a little. I ran up and down the paddock a fair few times to try and warm up the gearbox. I had an oil flush in it that works better when it is nice and hot.
After changing the middle and final gear oil I started it up again and for some reason (maybe it was just warmer) it was running very smooth with no backfire or spluttering. It seemed like it just soughted itself out but I get the feeling it won't be that easy. See what happens tomorrow.
If these carbies continue to run well I thought I might give the carbies from Bryan a work over to run with the pods then I can try that out as well.
Next two jobs on the list is to change the fork oil and setup a battery clamp. A pic of the original setup would be handy but I will check the manual.
I called the bike place and got a quote for a front tyre
Gave me two to choose from
Pirrelly MT66 Route $129  http://www.pirelli.com/tyre/ww/en/motorcycle/sheet/mt_66_route.html
 
or Night dragon $139 http://www.pirelli.com/tyre/ww/en/motorcycle/sheet/night_dragon.html
The fun will be being allowed to ride the bike to the bike shop to get the tyre fitted. Sweet 
I can't work out the age of the back tyre. It has plenty of tread and looks very uncracked so it will have to do for now.

I think the neighbors thought the bike was on fire from all the smoke. So I put the bike on the trailer for a trip to the car wash. Carefully washed as much of the grease and oil off the engine and exhaust that I could. It is slowly looking and feeling like it belongs on the road.
Mr Policeman that lives around the corner came to have a look see at what all that noise was about at some stage so might have to leave the finer tuning till it has some paperwork 

[BrettS]

It was funny Pete when I asked if he could put the compressed air over the carby's he said no but I will let you do it. He was worried about damaging something on them. With the compressed air.
I showed him that there was nothing really left to damage and he explained he used the chemical bath. We discussed stripping the other set I was getting further to give a bath but after some discussion he thought that these where stripped enough to go in the bath. He was going to make me seperate all the carbies at one stage.

Hey Jonesy
I have taken the top off and removed the diaphragms but have not disasembled that.
These directions where very helpful but they did not explain in enough detail how to get some things out such as the emulsion tube Thanks again Miti they came out well the way you described.
http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/tech-tips/maintenance/26/65-removing-and-cleaning-your-xs11-carburators.html
I had a feeling you where talking about work at the North Parkes Mine Jonesy. I haven't been booked in yet but no doubt I will be working some where there with you  A beer or two after work would be great 
I looksey inside that side cover is a good idea thanks.

I get the feeling that after this carby issue is soughted and I get the filter box back on check the gear oil and maybe a trip to my favourite auto electrician it might not be far away from it's first trip to the blue slip mechanic and see what they have to say.
Might be jumping the gun but I can feel it.

[Jonesy]

Excuse me, push, shove, elbow.
Thought I'd try and get a word in
While your head is full of things to check....you didnt mention if you had the lids off the carbies to expose the rubber diaphragms? any holes or perishing?
another quick check is to suck on the hose that goes to the vac advance under the cover at the LH end of the crank and see if it moves the advance mechanism. while you 've got that vac advance cover off make sure the light blue and orange wires havent got any breaks in'em.
Its a way off yet but I'm booked in for some work out your way at rio tinto 4th-5th september.

[petejw1966]

no worries, the plastic is different to the rubber seals tho,
hopefully its not so acidic to ruin them.

[BrettS]

Hi Pete,
Not sure what sought of acid or maybe even chemical bath it is but I pionted out the plastic tee's for the fuel line and he said plastic was fine. He is a pretty decent mechanic and he had a good look so hopefully he knows what he is doing 
It will be a good trial run for the carbies from Bryan.
Thanks for the heads up though I will keep an eye on them when I get it back

[petejw1966]

Took the carby body down to a mechanic to get some compressed air over them and lucked out that he was the one mechanic that had an acid bath set up just for this. He believed I had stripped them enough so they are in the bath overnight I will pick them up again tomorrow.
I think I will do this again with the carbs that Bryan is sending me except I will get everything bathed for that brand new look 

Oh shoot I just rememberd that I left one gasket on  How long has it been since I made a gasket from a weeties packet 

u mite want to be careful about acid bathing
especially overnite, they will more than likely
eat away the butterfly seals unless u took them out b4 hand.

[BrettS]

Took the carby body down to a mechanic to get some compressed air over them and lucked out that he was the one mechanic that had an acid bath set up just for this. He believed I had stripped them enough so they are in the bath overnight I will pick them up again tomorrow.
I think I will do this again with the carbs that Bryan is sending me except I will get everything bathed for that brand new look 

Oh shoot I just rememberd that I left one gasket on  How long has it been since I made a gasket from a weeties packet 

[BrettS]

Hey Errol Found the frame number and it is the same as on the vin plate 3XI 003913. Called the museum today and it was too far for them to walk to look at the bike  But they say they will reply to my email with some more info on the police bike such as frame number engine number and some pics of the switches.

Hi Miti and Steptoe, Just stripping g the carbs down again now. Last time I took everything apart except what I now see as the main jet. I was just about to ask how to do that and ask what the main jet was Miti but now I see that is what you are explaining to take out. Great stuff 
Here are my pics off what I believe you are calling the main jet/emulsion tube or the emulsion tube with the main jet removed.