checking clutch plates

[Eveready1100]

Mate, it was originally 15w-40. Now gone onto 20w- 50 due to the mileage on my motor. Yours, being recently rebuilt will do fine on the former.

[BrettS]

Ok I will drain the oil again and use it on the car.
What grade Helix was it Errol?

[Eveready1100]

When I first bought my bike @ 18,700 odd klms old, back in 2001, the clutch used to slip badly form 3rd up to top gear. I got it checked at my pet mechanic where he sent a sample away to be tested and it came back saying that it had been filled with what appeared to be GTX. Nice fresh FRICTION MODIFIED oil, which would protect the engine from wear better. Unfortunately, it also friction modified my clutch, but thanks to some insider tips from my mechanic, I chucked in some good ol Shell Helix and ran it gently for a while, then gave it another change and was given the all clear to give the bike a good hard run, after which, I can attest, it was cured!
Not saying that Helix is the be-all, but just stick with the old school oils for your old school bike, eh? There's lots of posts on here about who runs what in their bike, and it's local info. Not what's available in the USA.
That way, you'll avoid any problems with both the starter clutch and the main drive clutchpack.

[BrettS]

I searched up about Clutch slip through Google and that was how I found myself to your thread Jonesy. I had also found this.

http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/tech-tips/maintenance/engine/72-clutch-slip-fixes.html

I had not changed the oil in the motor. I had flushed the middle and final gear oil and replaced but the engine oil looked very good so i had left it. After Errol asked about the oil but not saying what sought I found some saying Dino oil
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5731

But then the main site info saying synthetic 15/50 was better
http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/tech-tips/maintenance/oil---lubrication/59-oil-and-the-xs1100.html

I ended up paying good money for 15/60 fully synthetic which is said to be used anywhere 15/50 is used.
I also adjusted the clutch as suggested here
http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/tech-tips/maintenance/27/74-correct-procedure-for-adjusting-clutch.html

It seemed very touchy but I seem to have it adjusted pretty close at the moment and there is still slipping.
Bet ya's want me to try dino oil. 
I am leaning towards shimming with the washer at the moment. In the near future I think I will purchase a full new set of steel and friction plates. Maybe put the extra steel plate in. I think a strong clutch sounds good.

[Jonesy]

Like Errol said
Dinasour mineral oil for these critters. All the fancy slippery additives in synthetic oil makes the clutch slippery too, and some will frost up your oil level glass as well.
I ended up going with genuine springs and friction plates.
If you've got the good oil and dont want to waste it you can do a clutch without dropping the oil. Put some 1/2 to 3/4 inch packing under the tyres to give a bit of extra lean on the side stand. You will need to fab up a special holding tool to remove and replace the main clutch nut. I've got one or can give you specs to make your own.

[Eveready1100]

Brett, before you go pulling it apart, what oil have you put in it? The wrong type will make the clutch slip badly.

[BrettS]

Hi Jonesy,
How did all this end up. I took the bike for a run to Orange today and started to notice cluctch slip, mainly in 4th and 5th into the wind but might be there on the lower gears as well.
Thought I was going to have to pull the engine out to replace the clutch/spring plate like in a car. Looks like there are several simple fixes.
Fingers crossed

[Fred]

sorry Jonesy, I've been away.

Probably too late for you but the washers go on the bottom into the recess. Thats why you use the sparkplug washers. They are a precise fit.

[Jonesy]

not together yet, hoping to recieve new friction plates and springs shortly. So havent bothered assembling. The "washered" springs and plates will be emergency backup. JIC there needed one day.

[petejw1966]

jonesy, i did mine at the bottom of the springs,
u should be fine.
did u get it all  together yet?

[Jonesy]

Fred, Pete
Just out of interest are you blokes putting the washer at the top or bottom of the spring? I made mine to fit in the recess at the bottom of the spring. But then I started thinking I might go at the top coz the recess at the bottom is probably there to hold the springs in place with all that centrifugal force going on. 

[Jonesy]

Along the lines of what Fred suggested......6 off 10mm washers sand wiched together with nut and bolt......put that in the pistol drill chuck and run against the bench grinder (improvised lathe) until the OD was 17mm same as the spring. going to assemble the clutch through the week and give that a try. Going to order new ones but this a back stop for bourke if bits dont arrive

[Jonesy]

Have written to yamrarespares to see if they can help (thats who i got em off)
If no reply by midweek I'll buy the ones Bryan put up

[steptoe]

not forgetting the "other" fix either,

the old 1 extra steelie trick

[petejw1966]

hey jonesy,
ive done what fred has said,
works really well,
just a little bit stiffer on the lever.