Carby Sync Issues.

[beemeerr11]

O.K. Pete thanks for bringing my high down, I'll do the vac test, I'm batching tonight, so I'll check and post my result shortly. I appreciate your help guys, BTW I do have it booked back into the bike shop as I rang them first thing Friday morning to let them know the bike was running shonky.

Lou
81RH 

[excess.11]

Scotty......thanks for that......."Dude".
 

[excess.11]

So Pete.......it would seem the ..." ported air ".........is not giving the correct amount of suction  and may be blocked or the vac advance unit is leaking somewhere ?

Lou.........make sure the hose to the vac unit is not perished or has gone hard at the ends ....or has minor cracks on the ends.
Do the " suck it and see if it holds... test"  on the vac advance unit..and let us know how that goes.

Lou.......pete is right .your bike is not the same as  the "Standards" vac take off point.

[petejw1966]

hey lou,
the advance hose goes to the number 2 carby,
the way u had it originally, the vac advance works
on ported air,having it connected to the manifold nipple
causes the vac advance to fully advance and cause it to chatter
like ur describing, so u need to switch it back,
jeff has u covered for the rest of the checks, did the vac adv
seal when u sucked on the hose?

the stripped plug, if its been previously helicoiled u can by
replacements usually at a spare parts store, using some red locktite
and needle nose pliers u should be able to screw the helicoil into
the head and then snap the tip off.
the part number for the helicoil is 28140
size m14-1.25x3/4 i found a cpl here i can post or try an auto store.

[beemeerr11]

Lou ,
Have you got the vac advance tube connected to the right place on the #2 rubber carb holder ...........not to the carby itself ?

If you remove the tube from the carb holder and suck on it...does the vac advance unit move/start to rotate ....?

If you suck on it and it moves.....stick your tongue on the end and see if it holds in position under suction.......or starts to slowly release from it s held position?
 
You've nailed it,  I just went out and the VAC line was on the #2 carby and the octapus line was on the manafold rubber so I swapped them around, damn it man the thing is ideling with no human intervention,  but watching the vac timing it is now chattering back and forward and sounds like ratteling a toothbrush up and down on your teeth, except for when you rev it the chatter goes away as the vac moves and stayes in the one place.YEEHA (I think).

So would that change the mixture screw settings now that I've done that as there was some small popping? Can't wait to take it for a ride tomorrow. So all those times I had those F@$%^ carbs apart and back on and swearing and cursing when it wouldn't run right was because the rubber hoses were on wrong   I gunna give myself an upper cut tomorrow if the bike runs well, and shout you something for your helm.
I'll be back
Lou81RH

You may have a pinhole leak in the diaphram on the vac advance unit.........or it s simply started to perish.

Melted outer insulation of any wiring can lead to breakdown and should be repaired to discount problems there.

[Little Scotty]

Jeff,In Australia we are "blokes"

[excess.11]

Lou ,
Have you got the vac advance tube connected to the right place on the #2 rubber carb holder ...........not to the carby itself ?

If you remove the tube from the carb holder and suck on it...does the vac advance unit move/start to rotate ....?

If you suck on it and it moves.....stick your tongue on the end and see if it holds in position under suction.......or starts to slowly release from it s held position?

You may have a pinhole leak in the diaphram on the vac advance unit.........or it s simply started to perish.

Melted outer insulation of any wiring can lead to breakdown and should be repaired to discount problems there.

[beemeerr11]

I just had my daughter on the bike holding the throttle so the bike won't stall, If i hold the vacum advance open with a screw driver eg pushing it as your looking at it 12 o'clock to say 10 o'clock I can turn the idol down to about 1000 and up to 1500 rpm and it feels so smooth doesn't cough or splutter at all and seems fine and will rev hard also and back to idol how it should, but once I let it go to it's own natural position (about 12 o'clock) it then spluterrs and stalls.

Does my explination make sense?

Lou 81RH

[beemeerr11]

O.K. it looks as the thread that came out is a tap from somewhere in it's past infact it is better that a tap as it is one solid thread, it fits perfectly and tightly back in this morning without any loctight etc, I'm chasing wires, and have found that on the right side of the bike (as your sitting on it) there are two lots of wiring, comming from the coils, one lot has touched the exhaust and melted the cover and shows a green and black wire, they don't look damaged but I'll get a better look later tonight.

It may be a stupid question but as there are two lots of wiring comming from the coils, is there a high and a low coil output?

Thanks

Lou 81RH

[excess.11]

It s an intemittent fault....as you ve reported............when the mechanic started it up it revved and started fine..
What you " Have " done......is instruct the bike shop....."Not".....to touch the one thing we now know "IS " faulty.......one of the plugs.

 First of all......."Repair" that plug thread.......this would be the most important thing to do first.....

A faulty thread....." WILL"... result in an intermittent spark failure.

Everyone is chasing their tail ...."UNTIL"....... you attend to that.

On the test that you carried out regarding the spark.........you observed the spark from a plug held to the side of the motor........"NOT ".... when it is part held in via a faulty thread under load with varying engine temps.
The plug relys on the thread for a good........ negative/ground... contact...faulty thread..... equals faulty spark.

If you "HAVE"  used Loctite or anti seize on the plugs in the past.....this will actually insulate the thread from the plug to the head.
If you have done this.........
You will need to clean this out with a tap.

[beemeerr11]

Excess11,

I hear where your coming from about paying for the carbs, but I was at a loss thinking I've done something wrong or overlooked something.
The bike shop didn't touch the plugs as told them not to as they are only one ride old, having the shop setup the carbs and balance them, and tell me they were O.K it makes me think that the problem is somewhere else, hence my frustration of pulling the carbs out and apart so many times and not finding anything wrong with them? They did mention that the idle mixture screws were 2 and a half to nearly three turns out, after my post last night, I turned out the lights in the shed, I couldn't ask for a better purple spark, BTW you can get a spark jump after the bike stops cranking (ouch) The symptoms are the same as Steptoe describes in his youtube video, about broken wire pickup repair, but once the bike gets above 2,500 RPM it runs like a dream. What other electrical can I check?

Lou 81RH

[Jonesy]

what part of the country are you in Lou? there might be a member in your area that could help sort the carby  problem.
I agree with Jeff, ideally, the helicoil should be done with the head off.
Loctite wont handle the heat, in fact heat is often used to "release" a stubborn loctited thread and really its only putting off the inevitable, proper, head off heli coil repair.

[excess.11]

Lou...
The stripped thread" must" be redone using a "Helicoil" kit.
You can pick one of these up from an Auto shop.
The head should be removed to carry out the "Helicoil "process.........as you don t want any swarthe to find it s way into the cylinder bore...
.....some don t bother......... and try to blow the remnants out with compressed air after tapping the new thread.....
.........or coat the tap with grease or vaseline ...removing it  to wipe the cuttings off and recoat frequently
........ or stuff a cloth into the combustion chamber........ carry out the tapping ....then vacuum out what can be seen sitting on top of the cloth...remove the cloth then vacuum through the spark plug hole using tape and a smaller hose to adapt to  vac cleaners hose.
The choice is yours.
Bottom line is........you don t want a secondary problem trying to fix the primary one.

http://www.motorcycle.in.th/article.php/How-to-Repair-a-Blown-Out-Spark-Plug

Certainly..... "Do Not"....use any of the 2 methods you have described.
Ascertain as to who was at fault for the stripped thread.....if it was the bike shop..........they should carry out the repair at no cost to you.
Proving that will be the hard part i m guessing.
On the subject of having others do work on your bike...........and paying hard earned for it ...
Your allowing others to carry out mistakes on your bike and then........paying for it....in more ways than one.
We ARE ALL HERE TO HELP IN WHAT EVER WAY WE CAN..............AT NO COST....UNLESS YOU NEED PARTS.

What your experiencing  at low RPM would seem either it s a problem in the "Idle" circuit...(not likely)... or it was your spark plug problem all along.
A plug that has poor contact due to the stripped thread may of caused the misfirng in the first place....and the carbys are ok and just need setting up once the plug is fixed.
It also follows that you didn t experience trouble until you took it for a ride and the engine temp rose......changing the fit of the faulty spark plug.......causing it to break down and load up due to misfiring.
I would try properly repairing  the spark plug.....then try and set up the carbs again.

If you still can t balance the carbs and get them right after repairing the spark plug thread............

Here s another suggestion...........take the carbs off your bike.....see if anyone..... nearby.... experienced in setting up carbs..... can volunteer some time to sort them out for you....by installing them on another bike and getting them sorted will also help eliminate any other suspect problems related to the running of your bike.

Hope this helps.
 

[beemeerr11]

I've had the carbs off the bike about 14 times now, last time was to replace two dodgy air mixture screws that Xtian sent mestill not running right and I want to throw them away, so I thought I'd take it to a bike shop as I can't work it out, a shop I know the eldest mechanic did his apprenticeship on these bikes, well I go and pick the bike up at about 5:30 and the mechanic through conversation starts it for me about three times in the space of about 15 minutes and the bike idles fine, he tells me that the cabs were all good, just needed a balance, so I go inside and part with my hard earned cash, by this stage the mechanic has left and the owner is locking up the bike shop. I go and hit the starter and the bike won't go, the shop owner comes out and the bike starts but is running really rough, he makes the comment, "sounds like it dropped a plug" on the way home it stalled at the 3 stops I made and was running rough until over 3000rpm.

Tonight I take off the side cover to look for the broken coil wire, all looks good, I take out the plugs and taking out #2 feels cross threaded, I get it out and there is the thread from the head on the plug, so what should I do, use antisieze when I put it back in or Locktight it in? The bike is due back at the bike shop next Tuesday I'm getting frustrated about getting this thing running right.
Any thoughts?
Lou 81RH
   

[excess.11]

Come on guys !!!!..........give him a break.............he was using the " Beer O"Clock ".