Oils ain't Oils

[Jaymo]

excess.11 We all know brown is the best color for underpants.
That way, if you get in a wreck, the hospital personnel won't be able to see the "skid marks" inside yer undies.   

BTW, I've used Yamalube, Yamalube with Lucas oil stabilizer, Valvoline 4 stroke 10w40 and Valvoline 4 stroke 10w40 with Lucas.
Just today, I bought a gallon jug of Shell Rotella T4 (meets JASO MA/MA2) for less than the cost of 3 quarts of the Valvoline or Yamalube.
Ya see, one of my carbs has started pissing petrol out the airbox, so I'm going to have to change oil before running it again (after I get it fixed, of course   )

[makzy]

JEFF has expounded the point I was trying to make, there are excellent oils out there that can do as good or better job as the high promoted, high priced, over rated stuff at half the price! That's it, I'm done on this subject.

[excess.11]

Brettsky....HA HA FURKIN HA...you made me LOL on that one.

[BrettS]

Where's the bloody fun in that!

[excess.11]

Brett........one point we all forget when it comes to one versus the other.......MOOLAH !!
It s an opportunity not only to claim THEIRS is better than the oppositions....it s also an opportunity to get us to dig deeper into our hard earned.
There obviously will be advances in technology with oils .......but Marketing plays a big part in where we spend our dollars when looking at the shelves in the auto shop .
It s the job of the sales team to get US to buy THEIRS.
But hey.......lets look at the history .......100,000 kms plus and 39 yrs later...using everyday mineral oil ....changing filter and oil around 6,000 kms....my bike could nt be running sweeter mechanically.
Each time I need to change a rear tyre............around 6,000 kms.......cos I like sticky rather than longy tyres...I know it s due for a filter and oil change.
Not to mention the regular top ups due to the leaking valve seals.
Some times we don t need to overthink things .....like....all the hoo haa when unleaded was discontinued.......look who stepped up.....sales and marketing to say......we all need to add the valve saver additive into our fuel.
Hands up those who were concerned at the time due to the hoo haa and spent/added this into our tanks on every fill up.........same people ......hands up if your still doing it every tank full or even at all?
Here s a TIP........if you want to look after your bike.........service it reasonably............don t ride it like your doing track days or you stole it.
If you like to thrash your bike.........things will break....and wear out faster......and...it doesn t matter which oil you have in it at the time...riveting stuff huh?
When was the last time you heard.........I serviced my bike regularly.........and I was ridng down the street minding my own business...........and BAMMM....the motor seized.....with the resultant cause being.....Damn..........that everyday named brand mineral oil was to blame.............I should of spent double the dollars and bought that "you beaut magic in a container" and this would never have happened.
Granted there are some low quality oils out there ....just don t buy them.

[BrettS]

This is interesting, I understand a little more of why Jeff is suggesting the 4T is having a bet each way in its blurb. It seems synthetic oil is just good old mineral oil that is refined to the point that all the molecules are the same size.
It does seem there is little proof that synthetic (molecules all the same size) is anything but good for a wet clutch. I've seen it described as keeping the plates cleaner and hence more able to grip but just another side of the discussion no clarity on how correct that is.
I'd did find one oil company after saying most of it oil additives were good for wet clutches it said its engine protect additive should not be used it wet clutches. I could not gather the active ingredient in that but it seems it may not be the synthetic oil that's the issue but additives that may be in them.
Seems to me the 4T may be a synthetic oil that is aimed at the market scared of using synthetics in wet clutches and has the added bonus of knowing it should not have any additive that is detrimental to wet clutches.
Well that's my layman googled understanding at the moment anyway.

[Chich46]

Cheers Bryan,

I'll stick with the 4T and change oil every 5. For me it's not about trying to save a buck but no doubt keep up the good oil and it'll save a motza down the track.

I'll be interested to know how you go with the Motorex.

[AussiXS11G]

Good choice, the 4T, Chico - My motor had done prob 90k km in the last 15years - not always easy km either - I pulled it down to freshen it recently (new big ends/mains/rings/primary)
and we found that the rings in particular had no appreciable wear - obviously quality oil/oil filter/air filter and frequency of service really does look after these internals -
I am guilty of over servicing for sure - as are the other fellows here I am sure.
The primary chain, on the other hand, really was ready for replacement when compared with the new one.
I would love to see what Errol's looks like when his machine is freshened up.

regarding the Motorex ....
The advice I'm getting from Jonathon (mechanic/son) and Ben (mate/ind. chemist with Castrol) is that these oils are all made from mineral oil,
not synthesized out of thin air, but are more highly refined than "mineral" oils, apparently.
Ben suggests that there will be 2 main changes going to the Motorex, more expense, and less frequent oil changes - It's the XS air cooled motor running temp
argument that the boys are using as a lever to shove me in this direction with my brand new motor. (Jones can argue against this in general use but on the track and "scratching"
I'm not so sure - the machine comes off the track pretty bloody hot)
Jonathon swears by the Motorex in all his dirt bikes, as does Dave at Suspension Matters (Glasshouse) It retains new look and feel for much longer than mineral oil,
and no clutch problems. The starter clutch argument I don't quite understand - my machine has always just started up, no cranking over and over.

anyhooo...... that's my story

[Chich46]

I'll be going the 4T, done....  I'll have to remove the Tranzac four into one to access filter and sump plug. Bugger....
I've got a leak where the can joins so I need to give it some attention and whilst I'm at it a bit of a polish.
I've been bitten hard by the XS and only after a month it's up there as my one of my favourites out of the 19 I've had through the years.
Cheers Gents

[beemeerr11]

Each to their own when it comes to choice, but I tend to agree with Jonsey and Horn about the Castrol 4T (mineral based), I use it in all my road bikes, and have done so for over 25 years, an example is my K1100LT had 50K on it when I bought it 17 years ago, it now has 230K and I'm more than happy.
When we had a Castrol depot here locally it was a good price but that is now gone, I've found that Repco (with discount card or NRMA card) sells it cheaper than Supercheap, I also hear that Supercheap is about to go all out Penrite.   

BTW all my bikes get 5,000 Kms Oil Changes.

Lou

[Chich46]

Cheers mate I'm just having a dig as we speak.

[Eveready1100]

No apologies needed, mate. We're all here with the goal to help keep as many of these old girls on the road as possible. If we can help, we will. this site is an absolute encyclopedia of all things XSive. Once you've mastered the search function, it's amazing what you'll find

[Chich46]

That is amazing mileage. It's good to know that my kids will be able to pass it onto theirs.

For what it's worth a mate who runs a CB500 four K2 like Makzy swears by Castrol RX Super heavy duty diesel oil 15/40. He buys in bulk as he runs it his HQ and other vehicles.

Again I'm appreciative for all your knowledge and apologise for opening a can of worms....

Cheers

[Eveready1100]

Ain't knocking it, Jeff. Sometimes we need a refresher as some of the info in the older threads online gets out of date and some of the stuff recommended is no longer available.

For the record on this topic -

Type of oil used - 19,000 - 300,000 klms = Shell Helix HX5 15w/40
 Switched  @ 300,000 - 382,000klms = Shell Helix HX3 20w50 due to usage (probably hardened valve stem seals). Bike still blows no smoke in normal running.
Condition of motor internals unknown as it's never been apart to inspect, but it's as quiet as a newie. Ask Steptoe!


Now......... where"s this tyre thread???

[excess.11]

Ev...read it and weep....cos next topics we will cover.....
Tyres....
then......paint colour codes...
also....spark plugs......erratic tacho needle operation...followed by what colour underpants are best to wear.