Handle bar controls setup.

[BrettS]

Oh, that makes some sense of it, Bike is parked away until after the weekend so I will give it a try when I get back. Thanks

I should say the handle bar controls went on very easy, I did them a couple of months ago I think. I am so far impressed with the reproduction run stop accelerator  control, even the wire colours matched. The cheaper indicator light control is also working great.
One other problem I think I have always had is getting the brake light to come on with the front bake. If I connect the wires that I believe are correct or touch those two wires together the brake light does not come on and it actually stops the light from working with the back brake.
Might have to follow some wires around before I can get any help there though.
Once I get everything working just right it will be time to strip away all wiring no longer needed, since I have a lot unwrapped already. There would easily be a dozen no longer in use just in the headlight not to mention the ones that were flapping around the bike when I got it. I have some good wire but I need a better selection of colours and connector sizes. Most of my connectors are a bit too big for the wire.

[excess.11]

The wire from the neutral switch to the light is a neg or ground .
The pos wire from the neutral light can go to any switched pos connection.

[BrettS]

Excuse the French but for frell sake the wiring has been a pain in the frelling arse this time. It should have been very straight forward but everything that could possibly go wrong has. I might elaborate more later but if I may jump to the exact problem at hand at the moment.
In hooking up the neutral light (idiot light) on the new speedo it should be as simple as connecting the bikes positive wire to the positive of the idiot light and then also earthing the idiot light. Every other idiot light has worked and I know the neutral globe in the new speedo is working as I have tested that.
Chasing the issueI have looked at the wiring diagrams and I see the positive wire from the neutral SWITCH can go either of two ways. It can go from the switch to the pick up coil before heading to the idiot light. Or it can connect with a rectifier (not the rectifier regulator) before heading to the idiot light. I have followed my positive wire from the switch to the idiot light and I can't find anywhere it gets power from. It has always worked in the past very consistently with every speedo setup so I have no idea what I have done or what has happened. How was this switch/circuit getting power and where has the power gone?
At the moment I believe the switch and connections are ok I just can't see anywhere this circuit is meant to get power from??

[BrettS]

I reckon I could ride non-stop to Bourke with that tank  But still a long way to go before Dusty gets a name change   

[XSIIE]

Once you've got this done Dusty should be ready.....now all you need is Retros Humungo tank and you will never have the fuel (or lack thereof) problems you had last Bourke ride.

And then you can rename Dusty to Ahmed the camel.

Eddy

[BrettS]

Haha, I have a few spares, Think I might need them too. I already blew one of the interim led's
Two controls almost done, speedo next.
Getting a few more xs wires 

[Jonesy :-)]

Have fun with that wiring Brett
Be interesting to see what ol dusty looks like with 8 blinkers

[BrettS]

Time to get back into my favourite job, wiring 

[BrettS]

Slowly getting there,
I came across a reproduction of the original run stop control
CLICK
That with the left control already shown should look OK

[BrettS]

Jonesy dropped in on his way through the other day and he asked why I don't just use a R1 brake MC. I said I hadn't been able to find one. My memory failed me the answer should have been I haven't found a cheap one. Seems like a lot of money for a second hand part that seems would do the same job as any 14mm MC ?
R1 MC $90-$125
Oh and nothing from Zeta yet Errol   

[Eveready1100]

Glad you worked out what i was trying to explain. Hopefully, the Zeta people can confirm that that's the perch your lever was designed to fit. Mainly guesstimation at the moment as YZF's range from 125's to 1000cc, so bar diameter may change from model to model.

[BrettS]

Ahh I see what you mean Errol so this of a YZF should do the trick.
YZF Clutch
I have emailed Zeta with the details of the lever see what advice they can give before I go ahead.

[BrettS]

Here is the ebay link for the Zeta lever States YZF
ZETA LEVER

[BrettS]

Thanks Errol, I haven't found a single zeta perch sold seperatly. Seems they don't sell the perch by itself ?? The perch I bought is still not parallel to the bars. I will keep searching for just the right one but think I have done the best I can on ebay.
Yep happy to alter the wiring a bit, might have to grab the throttle housing and see how we go.

[Eveready1100]

Brett, regarding your lever (the only item in your other post that you didn't provide a link to), seeing Zeta make different levers to suit specific bikes, perhaps  you can find the perch to suit the lever that you bought and hopefully it will fit your 7/8th inch bars. That way, you shouldn't have to alter any locknut positions etc.

Regarding the switchblocks, the main problem will be the wiring connectors as the Mikes XS ones have been discussed on the dotcom site about having to alter the connectors to suit the 1100's wiring (Aussie XS's are different again, as the yanks don't have a pass switch in the left side), so if your ok with electrics, go for it!
Throttle housing should be ok providing that the thread of the XS cable end matches the threaded hole/s. The XS single cable will work just fine. Simply plug the other cable hole to keep the water and muck out of the throttle tube area.