Author Topic: starter  (Read 2806 times)

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Offline Little Scotty

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Re: starter
« Reply #10 on: September 22, 2011, 05:44:54 PM »
Thanx everyone for all your efforts-all this info will be printed and filed for use if i need it
Whilst i am here can anyone advise me as to a good replacement exhaust system[my 1981 RH Sports 1100's are breaking up and i have a tinkling sound]A 4 into 1 would be the go AND with oil filter access>Can anyone advise pls?Where can i get a system at a realistic price?Thanx

Offline pgnz

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Re: starter
« Reply #9 on: September 19, 2011, 08:12:48 AM »
sigh.. .  The spring washer stack is compressed in behind a circlip and spacer and it's a major mission to get the circlip back on if they're ever released, believe it.  They don't get "loose" end of story.   "Wearing" the slop-joint enough to release spring tension means the joint would be so fekked it'll be grinding itself into the hyvo cog.     And claiming that the starter clutch and primary shaft(cush-shaft) can be released from the hyvo chain then "slipped out" from "the side of the engine" CAN'T be done because it's physically impossible to "slip" a 100mm cog through a 20mm hole!  Not even mentioning the washers, slop-joint, and shaft itself.   But please run the process of removing the starter clutch without splitting the cases past me again,  maybe I'm just blind or something??   LOL

Offline makzy

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Re: starter
« Reply #8 on: September 18, 2011, 11:02:24 PM »
Sorry PGNZ But i have to dissagree with you! I myself have removed and replaced the cush drive shaft wich holds the starter clutch on my bike about 4 months ago, it can be done and has been done, and the spring washer pack can wear out, I've seen a badly worn one with my own eyes, Cheers, Max.
MAX
 79 XS1100 STD (hack)
 80 xs1100 STD
( yet to be played with )
   ( ride the way you want to)

Offline steptoe

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Re: starter
« Reply #7 on: September 18, 2011, 09:42:35 PM »
the actual starter clutch is 3 enclosed spring loaded dowels that spin out and clamp down onto the main shaft,, when mine started playing up, it turned out the dowels had small flat spots on them,, so instead of being thrown out and grabbing the shaft, it was more like when you try and drive a tyre over as lump of 4x4 and the wheel and block skid,, same as you, I kept hitting the start button in quick succession till it caught like it's sposed to

I pulled mine out with the rebuild,, and the cush spring washers on the end were worn,, and could easily be turned by hand,, were as the replacement cut my hand trying to turn them

Offline pgnz

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Re: starter
« Reply #6 on: September 16, 2011, 08:47:51 PM »
Starter clutch can't be accessed and removed without splitting the cases.  No way can you remove anything from the side of the engine.     And the beefy sprung washers on the slip-shaft will never "get loose" anytime in the next ten centuries or so either

Offline Jonesy

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Re: starter
« Reply #5 on: September 16, 2011, 07:11:06 PM »
sorry for the bum steer....I was thinking back to 15+ years ago when i split the cases to do crankshaft surgery and did the starter clutch while it was apart.
2 X 78E's
TRX 850.
CT 110
3rd XS not bought yet

Offline Little Scotty

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Re: starter
« Reply #4 on: September 16, 2011, 01:24:55 PM »
Yes Jonesy,i use mineral oil,thanx
Thanx Makzy,sure beats splitting the motor;i will print and file yr reply[i sure hope yr right]
But i hope i dont have to go anywhere near the job-the problems comes and goes and doesnt hang around for long,and doesnt seem to have worstened in the 3 years i have owned the machine.
Keep it upright-watch out for the idiots and incompetents

Offline makzy

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Re: starter
« Reply #3 on: September 15, 2011, 10:28:50 PM »
if it is the starter clutch it is not a major job the cases don;t have to be split, the starter clutch is located on the cushdrive shaft, it can be removed easily from the left hand side of the engine but you have to remove the main clutch first to undo the big nut and gear that drives the main clutch, then slip it out slowly from the left while sliding something like a piece of metal bar or pipe or even a large wooden dowell in from the right hand side to hold the primary chain up so it doesn;t drop down into the sump, then replace the complete shaft with a new or good secondhand one or you can just replace the starter clutch, when you have the shaft out check the tension of the cush drive spring pack, (sets of concave washers placed back to back on the right hand end of the shaft) if loose you can shim them with a high tensile washer to put some tension back on them, not that hard really, cheers..
MAX
 79 XS1100 STD (hack)
 80 xs1100 STD
( yet to be played with )
   ( ride the way you want to)

Offline Jonesy

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Re: starter
« Reply #2 on: September 15, 2011, 06:37:14 PM »
what sort of oil are you using? friction modifiers and teflon additives arent really suitable for these bikes. A good old school mineral oil is what they specified and designed them to run on. Hate to be a profit of doom.....but its a major job (split engine cases) to replace the starter clutch
2 X 78E's
TRX 850.
CT 110
3rd XS not bought yet

Offline Little Scotty

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starter
« Reply #1 on: September 15, 2011, 06:28:44 PM »
I have owned my RH 1.1 1981 for 3 years;it has a chronic but intermittent starter problem[the starter whirs,but wont engage-doesnt seem to be getting worse,and only happens every now and again;quite a bit the other day,but no probs since.Any comments?thanx