Blinker causing huge miss

[steptoe]

The RH rotor had no  magnetic pull to it,, we decided it was more the windings more so than the rotor having the charging effect,,
although when we pulled the cover off the std and saw the brand new condition of  windings and  rotor we swapped the lot,
There was noticeable pull in the centre of the std, s rotor ,, next to none on the outside edge , not sure whether that's normal or it, s down as well


But your right,, there is certainly  enough for another barefoot production








Almost forgot, would love to come and help sort it,, ,,,,,,,  can, t do it just right now though

[Jonesy :-)]

Glad to hear ya's got it sorted, was the rotor from the alternator thing the one with low magnetism? how was the magnetism with the replacement rotor compared to the bad one?

Now, would yas like to come to Bathurst and sort my mcgyver bike ?

[steptoe]

                                 
 
                                  SORTED


Even came over Sat arvo, partly for moral support,,  ::)and because he knows stuff  about stuff

We went thru and double checked work already done, then checked voltages,  firstly across the battery,, 12.1,,
A bit sad, so we checked the wires off the stator,, 11.5,,,,, 11.7,,,,,, 9.4,,  we decide that's cactus and grab the one off the std,,,and the rotor,, 14 at the battery,,

All was  good,  a quick cam chain adjust as well, and  4 hrs later on the road into the night, with bright lights, no vibrations and a very smooth runnig XS1100

Thanks all for the ideas  and pointers,, love your work

[nozila]

my only suggestion is to update your fusebox to a blade type fuse. that glass one's can be and are volatile.

[excess.11]

One problem can lead to another as they say. Any loose connectors/connections will cause overheating as well as deteriorate wiring at those connections.
The connector you repaired coming from the starter solenoid....feeds the main fuse..... then the ignition switch .
By the looks in the pic it was hanging on by a thread.....restricting voltage under load and increasing current drawn as a result (hot fuse ). I m thinking the original fuse overheated...... and went open circuit due to the faulty connector .......when higher loads were applied.
The bad battery certainly would not of helped maintaining loads when most needed.....ie ..night riding......possibly creating voltage drop .
All up .....well done Geoff.......you ve covered a number of areas that eventually would of failed but were promoted by that bad connection.....and age.
Follow the work up by connecting your multimeter on to the battery and checking voltages before and after starting /running the bike as well as applying loads.....when running.

[steptoe]

forgot to mention, a new battery went in as well, the old one was a touch more than sad

[steptoe]

up until this morning it wouldn,t do anything,,
once I,d completed the wiring swap, I still had no signal lights, but I did notice I had dash back lights, and crossing the poles got it winding over,,

I,m sitting there looking at it thinking I don,t have the know how or the time {looking at the clock till I have to be leaving again} to chase a gremlin I don,t know,,

I start  thinking , if we had a grasshopper or a splinter what would he do,, I know the resistance sign on the multi meter is the headphones and a clear reading is 0, so I start checking both sides of wires at plugs, all was checking out except for the main wires for the headlights,  turns out 2 fuses in the new fuse block were suspect, swapped them and it,s all good,,,,,,,, ATM,,,,,, have all lights, blinkers, and it starts and runs

I,ve got no idea what or where the problem was or what a headlight fuse has to do with it, or if the problem has been fixed, but it all works,

 geuss I,ll find after tea tonight,

[excess.11]

Geoff......does the bike start and run......aside from the 2 warning lights and indicators not working ?
Remove and replace the indicator globes with new ones even if they look ok...and check inside and at the back of the contacts for corrosion or bad connections.
Have you checked power through the ignition switch as well as connectors in the headlight shell?

[steptoe]

have finally made it home again to do a bit snooping around,
I,ve always had a sad looking fuse block,

this is Pauls fuse block I bought at the bourke auction

 as I was pulling fuses out and cutting wires I labelled as I went
to late to go back now, not feeling terribly confident at this point,

next was to solder all the new ends on soldering isn,t a strong point either

happy as I could be with the job and having taken A and B out of A and B and put back in the same spot, I thought I ,ve got to have this right,, no such luck, still no neutral light or oil light

if you look real close in the top right hand corner at the connector you see this

cool,, fix that, jobs done me thinks,,yeh right,,,,,,,, still no lights,,

seems like a lot is still to be done,, now to go looking for the not so obvious

[Jonesy :-)]

Hey Steptoe
I found this good thread on the pommy site about one cause and cure for losing power. It might be completely un related but worth a quick check. You never know.... us unelectricals have been known to accidently fix a roadside breakdown with pure class.
I like shappers idea in the last post too.

http://www.benefiscal.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=4189.0

[Eveready1100]

Geoff, what Jeff said.
Also in particular, check the connector behind the fuse panel with the 3 white wires coming from the alternator. These are prone to overheating and melting, plus with the added load from your driving lights, it may have just tipped it over the edge.

Letsee,

rolling into small village with my driving lights on, pulled up at a stop sign and everything went out

Doing some maths here........... Headlight = 50 watts draw, 2 x 50w driving lights, 1 x 18w tail light, 1 x 36w brake light, 4 x 4w instrument lights plus the ignition system - ? watts = 220 watts current draw not including the ignition system, with the bike idling at the stop sign ( alternator is not charging at these low revs)
I could see that as a viable recipe for the bike cutting out due to low voltage at the TCI, but there'd have to be another reason for the fuse to blow. As you've fed the driving light relay directly from the battery, now, it should have taken any load off the stock wiring so it's a bit of as mystery to me, at least till you can answer Jeff's questions.

[excess.11]

Back to nothing meaning?.......no faults and runs...or....does nt run ....nothing works ?
Geoff.........so many things it can be........bad / hot connections....components/wiring breaking down.
What type of fuses are you running.
If you have the old fuse a lot can be deciphered from it ....if the most part of the fuse is still intact....most probably the problem is overload or bad connections or even as simple as a bad fuse and its connection.......if the fuse wire  is totally burnt...and missing/blown apart......you have a dead short on the wiring or a faulty component.
I d probaby start with checking power in and out of the ignition switch.....as whatever it was ....brought your bike to a stop. Pull connectors apart and check for discoloring due to hot connections.....whilst checking continuity of power in and out of them.
Check the battery voltage and connections as well as earthing points at the regulator/rectifier.
Can you start the bike ....will it run without lights on etc ?
If it will start......check that the charging system is charging the battery.
Change the blinker globes and check for loose/faulty connections there.
I assume the driving lights are running thru a relay ........start at the start and test the battery under load.......swap it out if you have a spare one.
A faulty battery may seem ok under daytime running.......until you put a load....such as indicators/lights/driving lights on.....which will also stress loose faulty connections and run them hot till failure.

[Jonesy :-)]

Hey Geoff
Just for laughs you could try the same bypass I did
Do 2 non electrical persons make an electrical person?

[steptoe]

Electrics are not my thing,,

Left home Saturday night for work, bike was running great, .I think it started by me rolling into small village with my driving lights on, pulled up at a stop sign and everything went out,, everything,, at 10.15 pm mind you,,

Turned out to be the main fuse,   lesson learnt I thought to myself,, self agreed,,

Rolling into Gladstone some 55 Kim later, put the blinker on and this enormous miss/cough then it kept running,, next intersection same thing,, into a servo same thing, still running, turned the key off and now back to nothing,,,,,,,,,,,,,, with good fuses as far as Can tell,

Where to and what am I looking for,,,,,,, BTW   kill switch is a non player