Second attempt at oil leak, a little advice please.

[steptoe]

then again,Brett might say F the hassle I,ll just keep the oil topped up and the leak wiped clean

he has one other option open to him, he could always call on the help of a xsive brother that deals with this type of thing with his work,,,,,seems like a good idea

[Jonesy]

end of the day a new o-ring won't do jack if it's leaking from the cover,thats true, but if re silasticing or gasketing as per your earlier suggestion doesnt stop the leak the logical next step is the o ring   there's oil channels feeding all through the unit, little chance there's anything wrong with the o-ring, only the dumbest clumsiest most-clueless previous-owner gorilla could f-up the o-ring on re-assembly , no point dismantling the unit for no reason,they're out there and judging by the pic of the rusty nut I'd say ones already been there before Brett got it    a dismantled unit is bad news coz you break the original lash/backlash setting and it's just guesswork to get it back, the 2 o rings can be done without up setting backlash etc if you operate cleanly and dont mix up the original shims which is pretty hard to do as they can only go back where they came from due to shape and bolt holes in the shims themselves it's precise stuff even a smidgeon out the paired bevel cogs will chew themselves to a chipped mess,    SEAL THE COVER then test before stripping anything Yep, agree, as mentioned and referenced to what you said in an earlier post
Then again, Brett might say F the hassle I'll just keep the oil topped up and the leak wiped clean.

[pgnz]

end of the day a new o-ring won't do jack if it's leaking from the cover,  there's oil channels feeding all through the unit, little chance there's anything wrong with the o-ring, only the dumbest clumsiest most-clueless previous-owner gorilla could f-up the o-ring on re-assembly , no point dismantling the unit for no reason,  a dismantled unit is bad news coz you break the original lash/backlash setting and it's just guesswork to get it back,  it's precise stuff even a smidgeon out the paired bevel cogs will chew themselves to a chipped mess,    SEAL THE COVER then test before stripping anything

[Eveready1100]

Probably a tad late here, but Speed and Sport - CLICK - have 27 of the o-rings #4 in stock atm.

[Jonesy]

Hey Brett
I bought a meter of the O ring cord the other day, let me know when youre going to do the deed and I'll post you over a pre-fab O ring. O ring groove depth measured 2.4 - 2.5 mm. I bought 2.62mm In hindsight 3mm maybe ok too but confident the stuff i got will be ok

[BrettS]

Thanks Guys flat out at the moment, I will have a look as soon as I get some time.

[hen]

 if Bretts can get it apart as in Jonesy's pic Blue  or black silastic on the "o " ring and then reassemble and re tension. and as Pete says always mark everthing so when you re tension you know you are close..

[Jonesy]

Heres a pic to maybe give you the jist of what I'm talking about

[Jonesy]

Hey Brett,
First do what PG suggests, clean old silastic off and give it another treatment,  If theres no gasket left go to your auto shop and make a new one, I think the cornflakes pack is too absorbent and will eventually just soak through.
If that don't stop it you'll have to take the middle drive off the bike. At the other end of the shaft in your nut photo is a circlip that has to come off so you can withdraw the nut, bearing shaft (items 3 thru to 9) etc out without undoing the nut from the side your photo is taken from. once you do that you can replace the O ring #4. This can be done without upsetting any of the gear set up and no algebra degree required. As long as you put it back together with all the original shims in the same place.
I'll get some photos up later to help explain myself. oh yeah...you'll have to make the O ring as I just learnt from my local yam dealer they are no longer available. A bit of O ring cord from your engineering/bearing supplier and some super glue and your done.

[pgnz]

to stop the oil scrape the old stuff off and smear on a new layer of silicon under the lid, the  shims set the cogs,  non-friction fit bearing and shaft you can shift and lock, the side-thrust bearing has separate cage and loose ball bearings that fall everywhere,  to align the teeth you need a degree in algebra for that  hahah

[steptoe]

jonesy,s round the corner and is competent in that field Brett

nut it out with him, order some bits,,,, jobs done

[BrettS]

No It was as is in the pic. So do you think I can replace it or should I take it to a gear specialist?

[petejw1966]

jat,

before taking the nut off the shaft,
grab a centre punch and mark both the shaft and nut
so when retightening u can line the nut back up again
to the right torque, this can also be done when messing around
with the final drive.

[Jonesy]

Hey Brett
I stripped down the middle gear drive I got from the Bourke auction.....cant help myself.
Anyway It looks like its an off the bike job to fix your leak
The O ring #4 is definitely the culprit.
In your close up pic of the hex nut, was there any shims? #8 in the exploded drawing.
Someone has definitely been meddling in there before you got this bike and most likely re-assembled with the original O ring and damaged it on re-assembly

[steptoe]

just one thing while you in there messing around,,,,,they,re a 90degree bevel drive, which require backlash tolerances,,,, they shouldn,t be pulled down to far by the uninitiated