testing pick up coils

[Jonesy]

Just for the record and because I'm bored in a hotel room
I ended up cutting out the speaker wire and 100mile an hour tape repair done by a PO re-routed and re-soldered at the break and wrapped in 3M splicing tape. Obviously a lot stiffer at the solder site. The winter project is nearly complete and I'll able to do a road test soon I hope

[excess.11]

Jonesy.......automotive cable is not necessarily "Hi-Temp"cable.
You will also notice most wiring around a vehicle is sleeved or wrapped for tidyness and mechanical protection and is not marked as such.
The connector to the headlight is also plastic......indicating there is not a great deal of heat present at the rear.
Many a melted wiring looms resulting from shorted cables will testify to that.
Put a lighter to it...and it will smoke and melt and go hard.
A H4 headlight has a "Forward Projection" of heat from the headlight.
If you stand in front of a headlight some metres away and place your hand in the beam......moving toward it you will notice the increase of temperature.
The light does not project a significant amount of heat to the rear.
I would still use silicon insulated wire (with the manufactures stamp and temp rating inscribed) in the side cover location.
Sorry to "Poof" out your light bulb moment.

[Jonesy]

Just had a light bulb moment....litraly. The wire off a H3 driving light bulb will be spot on    . Looks like its back to the bin

The meter leads failed.....the insulation anyway, too thick plasticy and stiff

[Jonesy]

working away at the moment but will suss out on the weekend

[excess.11]

Put some heat to the insulation of the lead in the form of a lighter some distance below it and see how easily it changes form......... if at all.

[Jonesy]

the meter was a  digital Kyoritsu? or something like that about 20 years old. although leads do look a bit thicker ......

[excess.11]

I have read......... the tester lead insulation failed and went hard not long after renewing by one punter.
If the leads were off a high end tester such as a "Fluke" meter there s a "chance" they may be higher quality than the "Dick Smith/Jaycar" variety.
Most of these testers are made in China these days and their cable is barely good enough for the purpose as it is...they certainly don t over specify for longevity in general.
There s no guarantee on the type of material used .......good quality silicon cable will generally have the manufacterer and temp rating stamped on it.
It s a job where theres a fine balance between the type of materials you use and the way you install them that will result in......... " doing the job once and doing the job right ".
Too long....no good........too short no good.

[Jonesy]

Jeff, Brian
Thanks for the tips.
Brian. you've just sent me picking through the bin as I just threw out an old dead multi meter and leads

[melbxs]

The wire for tester leads is usually good for it by all accounts.

You can get full sets of probe wires on Dealextreme for about 2 bucks a pair.

www.dealextreme.com

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/multimeter-test-leads-110cm-red-black-leads-6504?item=2

[excess.11]

Some people are reporting failure of the repair.........this may be due to not using a "Hi Temp" wire...as well as not being petro/oil resistant.
Standard pvc insulation won t cut it in this location......... due to the repetitive heating / cooling and flexing of the cable.
The heat dries out the polymers in the insulation sending it hard over a period of time.
Silicon insulated cable would be something i d consider.If you can t find some around..........buy a cheap LV  D/light ( around $15.00) and the cable used for the lampholder should suit.
This cable is usually good for over 120 deg C.
Hope this helps.

[rhodie55]

Jonesy,

Send us your address mate...I've got your oil filter housing here all cleaned up and sparkling.

[excess.11]

All you need to know is behind the "SEARCH" button........
"VOILA"..............
http://www.benefiscal.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=8467.0

[Jonesy]

the wires have continuity to the plug behind the fue box, but it (the repair looks crap) and I'm gunna re-do it.
3 Q's
1. Has anyone ever opened one of these pick up coils and re-terminated the wires inside. was thinking I'd like to completely replace the length of wire from the pick up to where they exit the vac advance cover.
2. Whats a common item laying around the home or shed I can pinch the wire from that would have the same amount of flexibility as the original stuff
3. can you buy replacement pickup coils complete with wires and plug to the back of fuse box?

[excess.11]

No Probs.anything else just holler.....
Had a typo error on the expected readings..have corrected it now.

[Jonesy]

Thanks Jeff
I've printed your reply and will follow it and see how I go, At the moment its only the repairs to the wires I want to check, It hasnt got any coils for the spark plugs yet.