XS1100 AUSTRALIA
XS1100 Topics => Workshop => Topic started by: FJR Ken on November 29, 2010, 12:38:55 PM
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Hi,
I've tried various methods of trying to remove the corrosion from the wheels, with no luck.
I think they are a bit too far gone. Lucky thing is that I have a spare set.
I'm thinking of doing up the spare set as in new seals and bearings and getting them powder coated.
I'd like them to have the original black / alloy original looking, but I don't think you can if you get them powder coated.
What have other members done ????
Cheers
Ken
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I have the swirly wheels and they were in reasonable shape when I got them, but had years of grime and a fair bit of corrosion.
I gave them a degreasing first, then used oven cleaner on 'em and then wire wool and dish liquid, then wire wool and autosol. They came up pretty good and underneath all the crud the gold paint seemed to have survived mostly.
The little nooks still harbour some crud, but a dremel would probably tackle those bits if I was really fussy.
The spokes have bare alloy edges and these were badly furred up/corroded. On these I used a really sharp paint scraper to scrape the alloy cleand and then 2 grades of wet n dry paper to shine them up.
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I am going through this atm
I acquired a pair of itallic wheels to use on my XS
I intended to just clean them up and use them as is.......unfortunately, they are different colors..
(https://xs1100.com.au/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi578.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fss224%2Faussixs11G%2FYamaha%2520XS1100G%2F23102010408.jpg&hash=51bc1b405c1e73d4fa6ae1de5b507acf71c2d0af)
(https://xs1100.com.au/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi578.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fss224%2Faussixs11G%2FYamaha%2520XS1100G%2F23102010407.jpg&hash=635669e17c306c0cf566d7336b3c20d47777926a)
so strip out the bearings, and get the paint stripper to work....
(https://xs1100.com.au/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi578.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fss224%2Faussixs11G%2FYamaha%2520XS1100G%2F29112010551.jpg&hash=c8ac0e6b30773cbe0cc91ba4c1f941df5247611c)
(https://xs1100.com.au/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi578.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fss224%2Faussixs11G%2FYamaha%2520XS1100G%2F29112010552.jpg&hash=546b7f285da9216834a3fa8aa01a0ce998811efa)
(https://xs1100.com.au/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi578.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fss224%2Faussixs11G%2FYamaha%2520XS1100G%2F29112010554.jpg&hash=3a4d97304db43ed9741fc13b1bc3acb3c2d796d0)
(https://xs1100.com.au/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi578.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fss224%2Faussixs11G%2FYamaha%2520XS1100G%2F29112010555.jpg&hash=e3f99fc3b18159cc787bf554459d7e194b792cfc)
and polish the rims - I wont polish the edges of the spokes - too much maintenance
(https://xs1100.com.au/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi578.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fss224%2Faussixs11G%2FYamaha%2520XS1100G%2F29112010558.jpg&hash=8918af4daec81617c0802af18c4626ccaf9fa9b5)
(https://xs1100.com.au/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi578.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fss224%2Faussixs11G%2FYamaha%2520XS1100G%2F29112010557.jpg&hash=80903986e9a7ca70951c29fb4e632318b621abe9)
I have bought a Kill Rust black epoxy gloss and an etch primer.......and new bearings to complete the job - now which tyres?????
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Well today I replaced the bearings and only one seal on the front wheel. The other seal that goes onto the speedo side is a strange size. Couldn't sorce it, bugger.
So I'm going to strip the corrosion, polish the alloy parts and paint the "black" bits of the rim.
It will keep me off the streets for awhile.
I'll keep the wheel origional and forgo the powder coating.
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mate , -all seals and all but one bearing are available from yamaha , , both wheels that is , ,
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Well today I replaced the bearings and only one seal on the front wheel. The other seal that goes onto the speedo side is a strange size. Couldn't sorce it, bugger.
So I'm going to strip the corrosion, polish the alloy parts and paint the "black" bits of the rim.
It will keep me off the streets for awhile.
I'll keep the wheel origional and forgo the powder coating.
Ken, personal opinion...go for the powder coating...it looks awesome and easy to clean. The alloy (unpainted) bits are easily sorted. After applying the powder, they just wipe off the areas that remain as alloy. Then they bake it!! My cam cover is powder coated...check it out.
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I managed to remove most of the corrosion and polished up the alloy parts.
I painted the "black bits" and it looks nice, well far better than it did before.
A pic of the wheel before the painting.
(https://xs1100.com.au/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg10.imageshack.us%2Fimg10%2F1306%2Fwheel1yf.jpg&hash=4cad726c48cf707f2fc326122afd17836492bc84) (http://img10.imageshack.us/i/wheel1yf.jpg/)
The black looks a lot better than it really is.
So next week I'll try and find a company that will skim the discs. If not I'll swap them out with the current ones on the bike.
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Hey FJR, what paint did you use on the wheels? I am in the process of getting my wheels painted and wasn't too sure of what to use. I am leaning toward a Black metal flake 2PAC paint rather than going with Powdercoat. Powdercoating would be easier as all they do is rub off the powder where the alloy needs to be left bare before they bake it. Not too sure how the heating process would react with the "Cush drive" though. Does anyone know what temperature is used in the Powdercoating process??
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I went the cheaper option and it looks very original.
Just a spray can of VHT Gloss Quick Coat, it matches quite well.
Masked up the rim area and attacked the rest of it with a small art brush.
I was thinking of powder coating, my mates "mate" owns a business here somewhere.
It would of been easier to clean I suppose.
I've been to 2 places who say they either cant or wont skim the discs. I'll try one more engineering firm then give it a miss. I'll just swap over the discs when the time comes.
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and now...................... masked and ready to paint...
(https://xs1100.com.au/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi578.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fss224%2Faussixs11G%2FYamaha%2520XS1100G%2F06122010593.jpg&hash=49e8aa707b91197f36bc88890ff6f3701eb6d268)
(https://xs1100.com.au/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi578.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fss224%2Faussixs11G%2FYamaha%2520XS1100G%2F06122010592.jpg&hash=47f5521d23f0b0f6556291be824d688c7620bcac)
(https://xs1100.com.au/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi578.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fss224%2Faussixs11G%2FYamaha%2520XS1100G%2F06122010594.jpg&hash=f9313110cb287cc9b02c828f8d39e4aaa5881307)
now......how about a couple of sunny days
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good luck with that last bit :(
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...Not too sure how the heating process would react with the "Cush drive" though. Does anyone know what temperature is used in the Powdercoating process??
this came up on the UK forum a while back ( clicky (http://www.benefiscal.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=7322.msg71192#msg71192) ) , looks like the cush drive rubbers should be OK.....
Hi Guys,
Never had any real problems getting wheels "part coated"..... Most places don't do it 'cos of the labour involved, and the inevitable moaning about rough edges. My front wheel went to the coaters wiv a polished rim, was masked (with normal masking tape), Blasted, unmasked, re-masked with Hi-Temp tape, and coated satin black. The hi-temp tape gives the clean edge..... if it is removed as soon as it comes out of the oven!
It is a major ball-ache, and takes ages, but I was able to do all the masking meself- otherwise it would have cost a fortune.
Most places don't like doing it, but I have always managed to get it done; a good friend used to run a well known coaters, and I helped out there (I was a compressor engineer at the time......) so I have a bit of leverage...... and me own Hi-Temp tape! Lots of coaters don't use it 'cos it is expensive!
Seen hundreds of rubber cush-drive bushes go through the oven, never seen a problem. Had a good few done myself, used 'em for years afterwards, never noted any deterioration.
AlanB :angel:
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Hey they are looking good Aussie...........
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Thx Fung.....
and now in black ready for bearings/wheels
(https://xs1100.com.au/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi578.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fss224%2Faussixs11G%2FYamaha%2520XS1100G%2F17122010673.jpg&hash=933db4f3f5c2dce5a00a166a029002593c2d3733)
;D ;D ;D
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Wow, they look really good , well done.
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Lookin' good old fella
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finally moving on with the wheel swap.... straight spoke to itallics....
have the bearings in both wheels, having a spacer turned to replace the speedo drive, but the
"hub clutch" (2H7-25366-00-00) is shagged - and I thought it was lash in the diff....
I have another but its a bit tarnished (well rusty)
will price a new one I think....
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ok all is well with the front itallic wheel swap....hurrah
HOWEVER
the rear seemed fine until I, jist minutes ago, tightened the rear axle nut ......The caliper carrier touches the brake rotor - I have loosened the axle nut and a spacer of abt 6mm is needed........
or something..... :(
it appears that eitherthe rear caliper carrier on the RH is different from the Standard (G)
or the rear wheels are different
I must go out now but here is a pic from the rear looking at the edge of rotor, caliper carrier..
if Errol can take a pic from a similar angle and post it here I will be eternally grateful....
(https://xs1100.com.au/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi578.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fss224%2Faussixs11G%2FYamaha%2520XS1100G%2F20110324_012.jpg&hash=c7c948ff67cbca624f2d0f0bb75144c1ff335fce)
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OK .... mystery solved .... RH rear caliper and bracket are different to the
G model .... the brake pads are the same however
short term fix is to put my new rubber back onto my straight spoke rear
wheel and work from there ....... anyone have a RH rear brake assembly
as a spare .......
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JAT bryan,, could you put a washer between the calliper boss and the seal protector spacer,, thick enough to take the boss off the disc but leave enough hole to put the split pin in still,,
that way you have your ittalic wheels, and brakes, with out any compromises on safety issues, till you can get a proper calliper stand
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Here you go bryan, for what it's worth. I'll try to get some better pics when i've given it a scrub up on the weekend, but, dunno why you're after a pic of mine. I'm running a 17" straight spoker on a Special, instead of the 16 incher, which needed the spacers and caliper bracket to suit a standard. You'd be better off getting Steptoe to show you a pic of an RH rear end which is what you'd be after??
or am I missing something?
(https://xs1100.com.au/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi950.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fad349%2FEveready1100%2F00000003-6.jpg&hash=1e9971751f2d7f40ec2081f96c3427833edc12b4)
(https://xs1100.com.au/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi950.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fad349%2FEveready1100%2F00000002-4.jpg&hash=ff6663c2a50561e9088cf44879fade40de020291)
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here's a pic of mine
(https://xs1100.com.au/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi856.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fab121%2Fsteptoexs11%2F24032011005.jpg&hash=38e4dbd88f93b63c11976a088c656856f8236429)
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right .... i,m at work atm .... spacers or move the rotor on the wheel seems the answer ....
i would like to know the length of your rear axle Geoff
B
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With regards to powder coating wheels, cleaning of corrosion ect, A reputable powder coater will clean the wheels in a mild hydrochloric acid solution for about 20 mins, rinsed, then dipped in a chromate solution for about 10 mins, rinsed, dried in the oven, 220 degrees, then coated with powder, excess wiped of where not needed, then baked 220 degrees for about 20-25 mins then cooled.
If anyone is thinking of doing this to their wheels you must remove all plastic and rubber components first, some shops will even sandblast first, please tell them not too!!
If you want a high polish on the alloy surfaces best to do it first with very fine wet and dry, then polish with whatever you prefer, don't use anything that has silicone in it as it will create potholes and bubbles in the powdercoat.
When the color is on then they can put a coat of clear over the whole wheel, the company i used to work for did a wheel for around $80, we had more disgruntled customers than satisfied ones, they have to tape of bearing surfaces before coating and if this is not done properly you'l have a shit of a time trying to scrape of the powdercoat to get bearings back in.
All in all, it's not worth it, clean them up yourself, however you like, if their really corroded a mild acid solution,(half a cup hydrochloric " swimming pool acid" to 20 ltrs water, brush or sponge it on, rinse thoroughly with water, polish straight away) .
Then clean off polish with thinners or acetone then paint with what ever you prefer, wiping of the excess with a rag dipped in thinners or acetone to create a nice fine line where polished alloy meets painted surface.
Hope this solves your queries gents.
Cheers, Max
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Hey Bryan, had a think about the caliper bracket today. I'm thinking that my original one off the 16 incher will be the same as an RH. I can't think of any sane reason why Yamaha would make another completely different bracket to hold the caliper sooooooooo, I was going to refit my16 incher but it will be quite a while till I get to doing that.
If I pass it on to Steptoe, and you two can rendesvous in Brisvegas, your welcome to it for at least six months. At least this way, you can avoid marking your pretty wheels by having to strip tyres off and on. The axles are exactly the same but I'll give you all the spacers, brake torque plate etc to get your wheel on your bike. I'll get a pic in the morning to do a comparo with steptoe's but I'm sure it will be the same.
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'ready mate..... thx for the offer but I've got my rear back in for the short term ....
I've belatedly had a really close examination and comparison of both wheels
on the bench and the upshot is that i need to mill 8mm off the Itallic from the shoulder
that the brake rotor bolts to .... this will move the rotor into the centre of my G brake caliper....
I'll post a couple of comparo pics later today .....
Cafe coffee atm, then home, fit my rear, do a final upper cylinder clean with that Threebond prduct,
balance carbs, change oil/filter, test ride then a sleep before work tonight ...... hmmmmmm sounds like a big day for an old man ;D
B
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Hi Bryan, you're right on the money with your measurement difference. I just went out and compared my two setups and that's exactly the difference between them. Knowing that, the rear bracket off my Special will fit yours using your original caliper, so the offer is still there if you don't want to go to the dramas of machining your wheel etc.
Mind you, if you do mod the wheel, you can then swap and change as much as you like then as all you other hardware will be the same. I wonder why they made the two wheels (16 - 17 inch) different widths there?
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'ready mate ..... being able to sxwap easily was my original intention ....
both the rears I have are 17" tho
all our std fronts are the 19" speedway hoop tho ....
thx again but I'll persevere and mod this wheel
B