XS1100 AUSTRALIA
XS1100 Topics => Modifications => Topic started by: AussiXS11G on July 01, 2010, 10:47:41 PM
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Why change?
1. the 30 year old units plug leads were getting shorter and shorter
2. there might be a few more horsepower in it for me
3. I will be fitting the Sachs electronic ignition down the track so 3ohm coils will be needed then
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don't laugh at my stickers - there is madness in my method
As you can see the old units are different (the smaller is a 2nd handie with XS1100 RH written on the side) - and they tested differently also - neither giving the optimal test reading.
I removed the BALLAST RESISTOR and set it aside. Join the wires that connected that and insulate the connection - heat shrink is perfect to protect and insulate.
So anyhoo.....
Thus far I've only been able to source silicon HT leads so thats what is fitted today (I have 7mm wire leads arriving by mail so I can use my NGK 90degree plug caps (I wonder which will give a higher HP reading)
As can be seen, the mounting holes in the DC1-1 units are at right angles to the OEM so brackets to be fabricated to facilitate mounting
The DC1-1 units do not come with wires but do come with fittings so make up some leads...
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and fit them - mine fitted without difficulty - fiddely though....
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I don't like the silicon leads and caps - too long....inelegant.....
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well there it is - I've been for a squirt around the block - sounds a little crisper maybe...
I'll put it on the dyno at CONCOURS in a few weeks
the workshop.....
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Good post Bryan - eventually I think I will end up fitting Dyna coils so was very interested in what you were doing and why - I like the idea that a dodgy lead can be replaced without all the expense and shenanigans that you get with the standard setup - kev
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I like the screw in leads too,, makes for easy changing down the track,
where from,, how much,, 3 ohm will slip straight into my system 8)
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Ebay from US.....$170 from memory - $100 cheaper than Sirco here in Aus....
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I bought mine here:
http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=210
$126
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With the current exchange rate there won't be a better time to get a pair of these lovely bits o kit.
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Had mine on the bike for 12 months now.....no problems only codt me $65.00 including postage. Right place right time ;D
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just a question? and excuse my ignorance! but do you still need to use resistor type plug caps with these coils? :-[
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just a question? and excuse my ignorance! but do you still need to use resistor type plug caps with these coils? :-[
I didn't, but after my TCI went on the blink I put resistor caps on. Not sure if there was any connection, but I'd rather not trash another TCI if I can help it.
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Any of you blokes that have already done this conversion, able to put a shopping list together for an electrical heathen like me? and also explain the different ohms, ballast resistor, and resistor type plug caps requirement for an "E" model.
I noticed one of my plug leads is arcing across to the valve cover intermittently. so a similar conversion might be on the cards for me too.
Thanks
Jonesy.
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hey jonesy,
if u replace the coils with 3 ohm coils,
the ballast resistor is removed and the 2 wires joined together,
the plug caps have 5 ohms resistance,
and ull also need 7mm copper wire spark plug leads, i think 8 mm will fit also.
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Jonesy,
You have to fab up a couple of fitting adapters for the Dyna coils so that the leads point downwards rather than out to the side.
All is explained in this thread:
http://www.benefiscal.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=843.0
You'll notice his coils are Orange rather than Green. The Orange coils are 1.5 Ohms rather than 3 Ohms and with 1.5 Ohm coils you retain the ballast resistor. Better to get the green ones and remove another potential point of failure IMO.
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3 ohm coils and 7mm leads arrived from z1 enterprises yesterday, $177 all up in my RMB in 8 days
Should keep me amused in the shed for a day or 2 nad hopefully be rid of that terrible flat spot down low???????
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The dyna coils are heavy-duty and punch out great performance in any conditions. Cracks me up reading the Yank sites where "the experts" will tell you that the aftermarket Chinese trinket shyte coils from MikesXS are "every bit as good as Dynas but cheaper with it..." Same with the junk MikesXS chinese trinket shock absorbers ...
Also there's a whole crock of crap that's been circulating XS11 forums for years about the XS11 TCI "frying itself" without the ballast resistor. BOLLOCKS! The ridiculous power-robbing ballast resister is there as a "just in case" to keep the plain stock coils from running too hot and eventually crapping out. Nothing to fekkin do with the TCI.
I've ran stock coils and no ballast resistor for big miles with never a hint of any problem. You'll notice that the "experts" telling you that your TCI will fry are the same "experts" who have never actually "fryed" a TCI in real-life practice, the "advice" is all just based on theory ...
Dynacoils are top performance and rock-solid reliability. You'll never hear a bad report about them. They're proven quality. I've run them for about ten years on my XS11 and they've been nothing but outstanding. AND they're the reddish-brown full-on 1.5 ohm variety without the dopey resistor wired in to weaken your spark. Dynacoils don't need ballast resistors anywhere bloody near them.
The resistored plug caps I also ditched long ago to replace with non resistor caps. The TCI handles all this stuff a piece-of-piss. The various "electrical gurus" out there clucking and wringing their hands and trying to convince everyone otherwise are all just waffling theory through holes in their backsides. LOL
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How critical is it to to which terminal on the new coils the red/white, grey and orange wires connect too?
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I only know about the 78 model, from memory the two pairs of wires that hook to the coils, there's a grey and orange with shared red/white, same as your pic, but with a well butchered wiring system as on mine they could be any colour, but they match the pick-up coils at the crank, if they're back to front they might backfire at 180 deg out but not sure about that because the XS11 has the waste spark thing, but can't be assed sitting down and swatting it all up again, but the pick up coils do have to be the right way coz they'll backfire and damn near blow the engine to bits when they're out of whack
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Thanks mate
far as i can work out i got the grey wire matched to the 1 & 4 plugs and the orange to the 2 & 3 plugs or vice versa.
but which terminal doI put the grey and R/W and the orange and R/w wire to? Thers no + or- to go off and once you start talking primary and secondary I'm lost and they aint marked either. So if they arent marked can I assume it doesnt matter?
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what if we work backwards for a minute, ???
which coils on your bike, 1 & 4,,, 2 & 3,,, had which colours feeding them, and which lead was on which side with what colour
now place the new coils in situ and run the same leads / wires to them,,,
as you were saying with the wasted spark both leads fire at the same time, one fires on compression, the other on exhaust,
so which wire on which pole may not be so important, as long as you get the right wires feeding the right coil
if you get it wired wrong, the first thing you'll probly hear is it firing thru the carbs, doubt you'd blow the motor on a single push of the starter button, you'll know instantly if it's right
just on the ballist resistor,, my understanding is it has nothing to do with the tci,, more the fact on starting, to ensure if you have a low batt, it boosts the starting system, so at least 6 volts go the coils to start, once the bike's running it sits idle
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WOO HOO!!!
New coils in ......missing and farting gone.(the bike not me)
I'm a happy little vegemite.
Now for that 4 into 2 system to plump up that slightest trace of a flat spot that remains.
PS it seems it doesnt matter which terminal you use as long as you got the right colours going to the right pairing of spark plugs.
For those of you that have a similar problem that no amount of carbyfiddling and tuning wont fix. I would highly reccomend this mod. $170 and a few hours in the shed well worth it.
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Seems Orange is 1-4 and Grey is 2-3 red to both ill put red to the bottom, other to the top