XS1100 AUSTRALIA
XS1100 Topics => Modifications => Topic started by: BrettS on November 05, 2013, 04:38:07 PM
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To enjoy my bike the most I believe making it easy to work on is important.
When dismantling the bike I think many would agree the electrics can be a pain in the butt.
Using this café racer minimal wiring diagram as a starting point is there anything else that will be needed for the XS1100 to run.
(I notice there is no indicators or tail light) Rectifier and stator does that equal eci box ?
(https://xs1100.com.au/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg824.imageshack.us%2Fimg824%2F7091%2Fgrj0.jpg&hash=9b36ae527c0a9fbb801773ba4a9cc68ca541b19e)
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Brett, you'd be better off going with something that's specifically designed for the XS1100's, as you might have problems trying to set up the TCI etc with that generic one.
Here's a link to a thread from the UK site where Tom has posted up a couple of versions of a minimal wiring loom. Have a read through, then decide how minimalistic you want to be (remember to try to keep it legal, too)
CLICKETY (http://www.benefiscal.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=5973.0)
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Thanks Errol, I see a lot in that diagram that I would be happy to do without. I have already disconnected the indicator cancelling switch. Wires from the generator back to the instrument panel are no longer needed as I don't have an instrument panel.
But maybe it will be helpful in working out the TCI box?
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Brett, sounds like you only saw the first two. Did you read through the thread and find this third one?
(https://xs1100.com.au/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi145.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fr221%2FTomBiles%2FJimsXSchopwiring.jpg&hash=87f9ac95bc14e8222edeeeec550022ec03e953a3)
Can't get much more minimal that that.
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No sorry Errol I didn't see that one. Now that looks great. I think I will message Tom for a larger image size. Thanks.
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(https://xs1100.com.au/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg18.imageshack.us%2Fimg18%2F5785%2Fkcas.jpg&hash=0ab4b5a37808303722884754e4af897f06d46e89)
There we go. Tempted to get stuck in today?????
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So you're going without indicators?? Maybe able to get away with that with your local constabulary, but may lead to strife out on the road as you're removing a feature that was factory fitted to the bike when manufactured and most authorities will know that as soon as they see the bike.
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Na Errol, Will be keeping the indicators. Just recently took delivery of a new L.E.D flasher unit for about $2.50c It not only works well but the bike now sounds like a reversing truck whenever I indicate ;D
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The bloody electrics give me a sucker punch every time I go near the bike at the moment. Been fitting the new "simple" speedo up to the bike. Should be a simple process but murphy has been working triple time on me. I was just about to try Jeff's solution on the neutral idiot light, which sounded very promising and I was optimistic I would now have the speedo wooped. Went through to check that all the stuff I had working was still working. Now for some reason when I turn the indicator on they all come on. The speedo only has one idiot light for both sides. I figured you must hook both too it and when I did last time it worked with no problem. Now if I hook both wires to the same idiot light all flashers come on. Took everything off and started again, same, Aaaaarrrrrggggg.
All I had done was strip the wire casing back to follow the neutral wire, maybe I now have a earth issue or a short some where but whatever it is I am damn well over this electrical crap.
Think it is time to grab the bull by the horns and get rid off all the electrics I don't need.
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Hey Brett
on the XS I owned previously I went to one idiot light for left and right indicators, but I had to put the electrical version of a non return valve in the wiring, to stop 'em all flasing like hazard lights, name escapes me what they call it.......a resistor maybe?
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Hey thanks Jonesy, I think what you refer to is a diode, love your explanation of them. I found out about them here
http://locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=170317
and now you have confirmed it.
I just went and stripped every wire I could find no longer in use and I now give up on the notion that it was working before and I was heading back to look at what these diode things are, will have to go hunt the town for a few.
This does not save the wiring from my wraith >:(
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Brett....single idiot light needs to be connected to the output on the flasher can.....or whatever your now using for your led flasher unit.
Do not connect both to the idiot light as this is where both left and right are picking up a common voltage to all flash together.
I t s a pain trying to sort electrical probs online as there are many things not seen and said in trying to cure the problem.
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Much appreciated Jeff, I just did a mock run with the diodes and that seems to have solved the problem for now. Maybe your way will be better as I simplify more and more, but as you say hard to explain ?
I also got some resistors for the LED lights, they are chunky and cost $26 (will get to 170 deg so must be careful where you mount) but I can now use the original flasher unit and the LED flasher cost me $36, shorted it out once and it blew. The $2 one I got from ebay is not doing a good enough job with the newest LED's Should have just gone the resistors to start with it seems.
I think I am set to solder everything into place fingers crossed will be done today?
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my xs1100 is a cafe racer and i used that minimal diagram posted as a guide to chop my wiring. this was quite a while ago, but bike starts and runs fine - i kept the turn signals.
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That's Great Nozi, next time you have the tank off could you post a couple of pics so I can get an idea of how much wirring is left and what App's you have removed?
Jeff the Neutral worked when I put negative to the switch and the positive straight to power, thanks :D
So that is about it for the speedo, the only thing I haven't hooked up yet is the oil light. I was just about to review what a couple of you have done with an extra idiot light and I might hook that up to it.
A few less wires than the average XS
(https://xs1100.com.au/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg191.imageshack.us%2Fimg191%2F4981%2Fbaxr.jpg&hash=0b2ad1de4f4c2870b5ca311d5fca9e803ebdd7a0)
The plan is to just cable tie all the wires that are left at the moment so I can get my hands on any more unwanted in the near future, Notice the CDI has been moved for a low racer seat.
(https://xs1100.com.au/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg14.imageshack.us%2Fimg14%2F5643%2Fvb3j.jpg&hash=6d0c0aef53ed090feae3d64f8fff6f9b3b38524b)
Still one electrical problem I should tackle. I don't think I have ever had the brake light work from the front brake, not as long as I can remember anyway? If I hook up the wires I believe to be for that to the aftermarket, HONDA ? brake handle switch then it does not work and it stops the rear brake switch working.
If someone could have a go at explaining how the double switch on one light circuit works that would be much appreciated, Jeff ;D
In the mean time I will review the Wiring diagram again ::)
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Following this diagram CLICK (http://cycles.evanfell.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/Yamaha-XS1000-Wiring-Diagram-1978-1979.jpg) it seems to me the power goes into both switches brown and comes out green. The brown power in comes at some stage from the flasher unit. My flasher unit is now only a two pin, maybe this is the problem.
I am about to fit the resistors for the LED flashers which should mean I can go back to an original flasher unit.
I am also thinking that I could just power the loose flasher wire from some where else but none of this explains why connecting the front switch wires stops the rear switch working??
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Both the front and rear brake light switches work by a tan (switched pos) wire to each switch.............and a common....... green/yellow from each sw to the rear brake light globe . The brake light globe has a black (neg) wire to it to complete the cct.
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Damn I was hoping I would beat you to it and save you the trouble. Thanks Jeff.
Following the brown wire I found it was connected to a earth, this resulted in a short of course. Found any old power wire connected it too the tan wire and bingo, almost, I then found the switch on the aftermarket brake was not disengaging. As in the lever was not pushing the switch in enough so the brake light was staying on. Sheesh ::). Tried a few fixes but ended up gluing a little extra plastic to the switch so it was getting depressed more. Now Bingo.
After reviewing the oil level light thread I decided to just wire up the old oil pressure light for now. After some F,ing around I found the red black wire had a bullet connector, not connected around the fuse box area and then bingo.
So almost done for now but going to play around with the LED resistors and add a couple more LED lights.
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You re a glutton for punishment Brett.............
plural gluttons for punishment)
1.(idiomatic) One persistent in an effort in spite of harmful or unpleasant results. I should have quit this job long ago, but I guess I'm just a glutton for punishment
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Haha, When I couldn't find a ready made spot or bracket to mount the resistors I put that on the back burner, other jobs are getting urgent. LED's at the back and ugly little globe indicators at the front for now but I think it is ready to be legal again.
Thanks ;D
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If someone could have a go at explaining how the double switch on one light circuit works that would be much appreciated,
The switches are wired in parallel - across each other. It doesn't matter which one is closed or even if both are closed at the same time, the lamp should come on...
Here's a similar circuit:
(https://xs1100.com.au/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fsub.allaboutcircuits.com%2Fimages%2F04065.png&hash=30597c58c536f015422792a6a5c9932f67eae557)
L1 and L2 are the supply and earth. This circuit has a siren instean of a lamp, but the principle is exactly the same.
The "signals" circuit on a standard XS11 is fed by brown wires from the fusebox. The brake lights are green/yellow... When these two are connected by either switch, the brake lamp should come on (providing the bulb has a good earth...)
Hope that helps
Miti
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Just reviewing the Minimising of wiring and I have no idea what this younger version of me is on about Oh shit I hate electrics!
Oh and thanks Miti, sorry I have no idea ? Looks very understandable in your diagram but cant remember how this relates to my issue in real life :)
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The schematic Miti posted would relate to how 2 switches ....or more....can operate one load. In your young mind Bretto....would it have related to the front and rear brake light switches?
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I think that would be correct :D