XS1100 AUSTRALIA
XS1100 Topics => Workshop => Topic started by: steveh on March 07, 2013, 07:06:45 AM
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Trying to get the drive shaft out of the swing arm...any ideas?
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Have you removed the wire clip on the spline at the motor end?
Been a while since i done this job, dunno if you have acess to the clip by removing the rubber boot?
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I used 2 pairs of vicegrips with an allen key locked in the jaws of each. Slipped them in behind the splined flange and pulled it out. Didn't take too much of a reef to pop it out.
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ok will give it a try...thanks
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The clip stays on the shaft and pulls thru with the spline, maybe pull the boot back and spray the spline with a lube of your choice,,, they normally come out and go back in easily enough
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Hi sorry took so long to contribute.
I got mine out by (note my engine out) putting long lever against cross shaft joint and pushing on lever forcing joint towards engine over coming clip this type of clip (https://xs1100.com.au/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1254.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fhh610%2FHen1959%2Fxs1100023_zpsec50daa3.jpg&hash=90b87b5d3fc50893f34c39b7a81cafe8382bc26f) (http://s1254.photobucket.com/user/Hen1959/media/xs1100023_zpsec50daa3.jpg.html)is found on most drive shafts fitted to FWD (front wheel drive vehicles) ) my diff end was dry and rusty looking well worth the effort
(https://xs1100.com.au/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1254.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fhh610%2FHen1959%2Fxs1100022_zps198b3e1a.jpg&hash=09d7af1108c51640c051cf5085c4373b9d086df0) (http://s1254.photobucket.com/user/Hen1959/media/xs1100022_zps198b3e1a.jpg.html)
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Time for a new back tyre so I thought it was about time I learnt to get the rear wheel off. Now I have it off I wonder if there is any maintence or checks I should do before putting it back on? There is a bit of very old grease and debri in there so I reckon a degrees could be good. When re-installing the wheel do I add some fresh grease some where? I have a new wheel bearing here so although the existing one seems fine I thought I might put the new one in and keep the old as a spare?
Thanks for any advice and opinion.
Brett
Oh and I am replacing the rear tyre with a Kenda Challenger. At $139 fitted to loose wheel and great revies it seems like a bargain.
Kenda Challenger Reviews (http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/3/31/401/6097/PRODUCT-REVIEW/Kenda-K657-Challenger-Rear-Tire.aspx)
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Oh almost forgot, we all love a picture ;D Exhaust rears had to come off (maybe could have got away with just the right side) but that is simple enough. With the shortened rear guard I didn't have to lift it, I could just squeeze it out around it.
(https://xs1100.com.au/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg89.imageshack.us%2Fimg89%2F5481%2F5soh.jpg&hash=24979d6f901783ac54bb6746800a2e17b947c356)
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Like you say mate,, clean splines and regrease,, needle roller bearing would like a clean and refresh since you can get at it,, roller bearing should be good if it still has sides in place
While you have it off tho,, it would be most prudent to remove the diff off the swingarm and check the spline ends and clean/regrease them to,,
The front is held in by a locating clip which will pop out with a good yank
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Hey Steptoe
Its been a k'n long time since I removed a drive shaft. once you pop that circlip, how do you get it back in?.....is it accessable by peeling back the rubber boot at the uni joint?
And I don't know if Brett's bike looks too stable to be giving anything a good reef
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Thanks Steptoe. Hey Jonesy I work at the mines IS SAFE ::)
Oh one thing I forgot to mention, The local shop was concerned about swapping tyres on Alloy wheels said that sometimes they can crack. They suggested I go to a shop that has a better machine. Guess thiers is a bit rough but has anyone had trouble with this before?
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nah mate I think they're just covering there arses....I assume you mean a car tyre shop when you say the local shop?
If a bike shop said that it would be cause for concern. never heard of cracking alloy rims at a tyre change (even when using a forklift to run over the tyre to brake the bead :-X).
The last emergency one I had done was at Wellington car tyre shop. No problems
As for your work stand, the photo doesn't show how safe and stable it is, but if its mine approved it'll be no less than 5 star ay.
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LOLIs the local Yammy dealers, they are an acquired taste. At first you think they are a bunch or arrogant pricks but if you go with the flow you find they have as little disregard for the boss as he is away fishing. Just the other day one realised he had not added the Glue and primer to my $180 bill for pool stuff. He got me to pay another $40 for an ordered item and left the glue/primer of the list, prob $30-40 saving. Best to work with them on what jobs they feel like doing :-X
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You don,t pop the circlip it,s a broken spring clip in a groove, when pulled and pushed into and out of the yoke the clip squeezes into the locating groove ,, when refitting, it,s a case of pushing the yoke up into the centre thru the boot so the spline can pick the end up and push it home
Seriosly it,s that simple,,, no yoke ::)
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Just double checking I understood Steptoes instructions and I came across this, A diff ratio selection would be interesting but seems some are unsure? A lot of it is over my head?
CLICK (http://hitechkc.dyndns.org:78/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=108)
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Brett, you'll find lots of talk referring to the conversion on the Dotcom site. If you look a bit more closely, you will also find some posts regarding the final drive failure of some of the converted. They have smaller gears and bearings inside them and would only really be suited to cruising down the interstates at lower revs in top gear, not playing in your local set of twisties or off the lights.
But have a browse anyway, to satisfy your curiousity and have a good think about the way you like to ride your bike.
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It say's to use molybdenum bisulfide grease on the Axle. After googling I am still not sure as there seems to be a 3% and a 40% moly grease. I am guessing the 3% will be ok. The manual just states grease for the wheel replacement so unsure if I use general purpose grease or Moly grease there?
I was going to patent my shaft removerer but decided to share it with ya's ;)
Bonsai wire (most handy stuff ever) wrapped around spline end then a good yank. I got the misses to stable the bike at the front cause some one complained it wasn't safe :-X
(https://xs1100.com.au/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg202.imageshack.us%2Fimg202%2F5607%2Fxxfn.jpg&hash=736c0aee549a823decb579e45ffbd2817809d825)
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Brett, go for the 40% as the one with the lower content can give up the ghost quite quickly, as Bryan found out a while ago - CLICK (http://xs1100.com.au/forum/index.php?topic=1603.msg9585#msg9585)
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Yes I saw the talk of failure and that's were a lot of it went over my head and I was wondering what the more experienced thought about it?
I just got asked to come along to the next local 1/8th mile drag meet with my bike so the lower diff gear would be no good for that ::) I wonder if there is anyway to get a higher gear in the diff for an even faster take off?
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Ok great thanks Errol, what do you reckon around the roller bearings and wheel splines Moly or general?
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Brett, having trouble keeping up with you. Check my last posts as when I put them up, you've replied probably at the same time.
For all the splines, 40% moly grease, and hi temp wheel bearing grease for all the bearings.
When you clean all the grease off the diff end of the driveshaft, have a close look at the teeth as I found mine to be quite badly stepped from wear. Have a read of this thread and check my photos. I thought they looked ok until I really cleaned it up and inspected them - CLICK (http://xs1100.com.au/forum/index.php?topic=1140.msg6254#msg6254)
Oh, and about the only way to lower the gearing easily is to source a 16" wheel off a Special. Mind you, it only alters the revs by about 400rpm @ 100kph so it is marginal, but noticeable off the mark. Not like putting a set of 4.11 gears in the back of your V8, though.
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Yes we were a little out of wack there, I was posting the pick of the spline as you replied to the earlier post about the diff mod. Not sure about anyone else reading it but I was with ya all the way :)
Ok, I am heading to Rip Every Poor C.... Off now and hopefully they have the 40% moly. The premium high temp red wheel bearing grease I already had will go every where else.
Thanks 8)
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Or, if you really want to tailor the ratio to whatever you want.....you could go chain drive, I know where you could get one....
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Might be funny if I wasn't drowning in sweat and having trouble getting the spile to line up again Aaaarrgg!
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I noticed some movement and noise when I rotated the back wheel back and forth this arvo and now I'm up to pulling the drive shaft out and waiting to see how you go getting the shaft splines and the floppy uni lined up before I go any further.
Philip island trip on soon and reluctant to open a can of worms.
don't want to hijack
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All done.
Since I was cleaning and freshening the back end up I thought I better finally get that copper washer to seal the final gear oil filler bolt/grubscrew. Did a fair bit of running around just to get the bloody washer but no one had a replacement bolt which I also wanted as the allen hole had long since rounded off and a chisel had to be utilized to undo the bolt.
I decided to weld an allen key into the bolt as a temp fix till I find a replacement.
(https://xs1100.com.au/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg513.imageshack.us%2Fimg513%2F4276%2Fvw62.jpg&hash=d8825842bb4241312f04409667dd4d545acee959)
(https://xs1100.com.au/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg856.imageshack.us%2Fimg856%2F2595%2Faevx.jpg&hash=86b430707c05b9664e2e330827b12d432dc0dc7e)
(https://xs1100.com.au/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg29.imageshack.us%2Fimg29%2F9959%2Fyxcl.jpg&hash=71da90c12a571c5e0617f556d785434e8fabd9fa)
I couldn't find a 40% Moly grease as most don't tend to list the %. But I was lucky enough to get a Grease and oil Guru who assured me that this stuff is the Bomb with a high percentage of Moly + other ingredients that will ensure it does the job for my shaft drive bike.
(https://xs1100.com.au/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg208.imageshack.us%2Fimg208%2F4866%2Fxobz.jpg&hash=fba8dc809a0fff06f9ef3fb887eab982add6c3af)
It has sugar mill written on it as apparently it is used at the sugar mill with massive gears and massive slow moving bearings.
Thanks for all the help Guy's. I put a couple of rubber washers on the Mufflers and the Bike is running better and better 8)
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Hey Jonesy, Hijack away. I only talking shyte anyway. I ended up taking both shockies off so I could move the swing arm freely. This and pulling the boot back on the uni-joint so I could see the uni move as I rotated the shaft. Once I was able to move the shaft and watch the uni move with it and a couple of hail Mary's I shoved the shaft in like a bitch. Funnily enough before this giving it a good tap with a 12" shifter didn't work.
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You are a true believer and a true achiever looking forward to seeing your bike at the rally 8)
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Hey thanks John, don't go hexing me though ;)
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Ok since BrettS gave me the go ahead to hijack, still wheel spliney related
And Also in reply to an email I got from Eveready
as I mentioned earlier I was about to take the drive shaft out.........What made me go into the area of the drive was just randomly checking backwards forwards free play at the back wheel I had about 10mm backlash and a very distinctive clunk each way when the 10mm backlash took up........so out with the yellow handled stethoscope which reckoned it was in the final drive. Off with the wheel, splines look good and well lubed still red coloured too but maybe a tad darker, off with the final drive, same, all looked good, final drive had no detectable back lash. drive shaft had a fraction of freeplay with the slightest of noise still remaining coming from up the uni joint end. This is where I got reluctant to go any further this close to the motogp trip. Middle gear oil was still honey coloured and I had no vibration from a wearing uni so I made the executive decision it was ok and roadworthy for Phillip island and back. put it all back together with lashings of fresh grease and now quiet as a mouse wtf.
The only conclusion I came up with is that I'm just using a general purpose grease on the splines and probably needs more checking and refreshing than purpose made spline grease
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Damn pics gone missing, I was looking for shaft grease again